Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As some of you would be aware, I recently purchased flares from Japan. There was a slight oversight on my behalf. The front ones fit nicely, and so do the rear, but I was,nt aware the rear one were made to suit a semi tubbed rear end. Your supposed to cut out your arches, I guess it makes sense as flared guareds are for putting bigger wheels under. Will cost $2000 to tub and then it must be approved by engineer, too much hassle. I think I might make extensions for the arch so that it covers the existing arch. I was going to bring a heavy duty hammer home from work an belt the crapper out of the arches, but on my coupe it's not exactly thin behind there, maybe lots of heat and accurate heavy handedness. Any ideas?post-44326-1229213130_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/248820-flared-guards-dilemma/
Share on other sites

As some of you would be aware, I recently purchased flares from Japan. There was a slight oversight on my behalf. The front ones fit nicely, and so do the rear, but I was,nt aware the rear one were made to suit a semi tubbed rear end. Your supposed to cut out your arches, I guess it makes sense as flared guareds are for putting bigger wheels under. Will cost $2000 to tub and then it must be approved by engineer, too much hassle. I think I might make extensions for the arch so that it covers the existing arch. I was going to bring a heavy duty hammer home from work an belt the crapper out of the arches, but on my coupe it's not exactly thin behind there, maybe lots of heat and accurate heavy handedness. Any ideas?post-44326-1229213130_thumb.jpg

Check this out

http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27682

Nigel

Thanks Nigel, I just got off that site and now I think I know what i'm going to have to do.

PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT.

I'm guessing you would have to take it to an engineer after to have it approved?

Not sure if this will help.

There is a roller that you can use to flare the guards. I know it works on S13 and 180s.

Also Google "mud guard flares"

Edited by 66yostagea
if you're going to pay 2k just to get the gauards tubbed to fit them flares, you're better off seeing a fibreglasser and get them to custom make the flares to suit the rear of your car.

If it's to much trouble, just drive it down to Tassie, and sell it to me :-)

edit: Just noticed it's not a 240K, so I don't need it..

Nigel..

Edited by noddle

Does anyone know if the 240k coupe and the C210 coupe are the same in the rear wheel arch department. If so i'm probably going to have a go at following 240k convertibles procedure. It's just that when you look at how far up you need to cut. on the inside of the guard it looks like the skins are quite wide apart( at least 32mm).

Is the back edge molded to the body. ie does it follow the contours of the side of the car exactly? I'm assuming it does, which make my next suggestion a bit pointless, but maybe you could mount them lower down on the car and chop the ends off? Otherwise cutting the guards out is probably the only solution.

Yea Mr Camo, the guards fit neatly against the body contours and Racsovn that's exactly what I'd be doing along with lowered springs.I think I'll put the flares on the back burner till I have the money to mini tub it." Oh that's right , Mr Rud just gave me $2000. Convince my wife that half is mine and now only need $1000, Thinking eh!

I'm assuming by 240k you mean the c110. the C110 is a skyline, just like a c210. c210's are also known as 240k's

no, the rear guards are different.

Does the C210 has a "240K" badge on it ?, Since I haven't seen one up close, I though the C110 was the only "240K"

Nigel

Edited by noddle

Noddle, there's nothing on my car saying 240k,and I don't refer to it as a 240K. To me that's the C110. Saying that I've driven into tyre, suspension, and automotive workshops and they've all refered to it as a 240K. I tell most people it's a C210 78 skyline, it's easier that way

Decided to go ahead with filling in some of the arch. I've fixed some light tin to the rear of the guard and I'll fibreglass over it. I'm still going to heat the arches and knock them out 20mm if possible." I just wanna get these guards on"

Will post a pic soon.

The first photo you posted looks pretty similar to how my C110 looked before I chopped into it. You only need to cut the rear qtr just above where the bottom of the frp arch goes to, run a pen along the bottom of the arch, angled a little upwards and it will show nearly exactly how much will need to come off.

The amount of time it will take you with the filling & fibreglass will be similar to doing the welding & cutting of the arch.

I cut the front guards a lot higher than the rears, this was due to the gap that was appearing the higher you cut in the rears. With all the photos I've seen of lowered C210's I'd guess that they have a very similar depth wheel well to the C110 so it should be possible to cut them up. If you could take some shots of the inside of the C210 well I'd have a better idea.

Cheers Andrew

post-25281-1229423098_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229430816_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229430997_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229431146_thumb.jpg

post-25281-1229431456_thumb.jpg

I've got the next 2 days off and I'm going hard at my flares. The rear ones are going to be about 2 inches wider at the top once i've fibreglassed them. It may look a bit odd, but I'm just not prepared to cut into my arches at the mo. Maybe way down the track i'll order some more rear flares and do it all properly. i got offered some 15x8 mags today, they've got 235's on them, BUT he wants $1000 for them. The're off his 260z which he just sold. I've been told it'd be near impossible to find this size mag in 4 stud.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • bro, knowing the Japanese in  the 90's, i wouldn't be surprised if they shared components across their model lineup.
    • Maaaan so many "little" things  i rly hope my old RB20 would be "ok" and not too bad. I try to learn what and what not do i need. I look at crossmember at it looks different...even parts numbers are different. Wiring and all that i rly do not know...yeah someone mentioned the speedo thing. On that yoke clip. I rly do not know what can and cant be done "custom" so that is why iam asking to know and not be suprised 🙂  I know what it looks like  
    • Oh, there's also the gearbox crossmember which will probably be different between the small box and the big box, and the wiring loom will probably need to be modified, because the plugs for the switches etc, will probably be different. And I think the speedo on the small box R34s is from somwhere stupid, like the diff, possibly, so you'd need to work out what needs to be done about that (assuming it is different). I think the thing you need to realise is that the front end of that yoke is a large hollow tube with splines on the inside that mates with the splines on the box's output shaft. It is a dedicated thing - not available "aftermarket". They were made to suit that box, by the car's OEM.
    • You need to buy a Saab Matt, ours had a button that turned all the dash lights off. Any decent aftermarket dash has sufficient brightness control and a headlight input for day/night settings. None of which probably helps OP
    • Yeah thanks...i thought it would be alot more i dont know 😄 I saw some videos on converting push/pull and it seems you need to "drill" the hole for slave(master) cylinder and buy some converter kit. On that front yoke clip i did not even know that is a thing and i need to source that(custom shops do not do that?) But anyway thank you for the info
×
×
  • Create New...