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Greetings to you all, It's an honour to be part of the great forum. I’m happy to learn and build good relationships with members of this community. Thanks for having me! -
normally i don't like to get involed with these kinds of self promotions stuff, but good on you for living your dream man. -
Remember our cars are 30+ years old so expect the rubber bits to leak. I'd go around your engine bay with a can of "start ya bastard" or similar and look for leaks. FYI I got my car 10+ years ago with the standard boost restrictor in place, I removed it when I got it and the car never had any issues since (besices a leaking manifold gasket). tl;dr- Look for leaks before proceeding.
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By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
That SSR is actually the same (or similar) as the Jaycar 100AMP SSR (which I use). They suggest the resistor to stop the SSR turning on when the ECU turns off (I believe). I personally don't use the resistor as I use the 5V output from the ECU to supply power to the SSR. I do however run a flyback diode, the old Haltech documentation was wrong too and didn't specify the fly back, I mentioned it to a few of their staff and they eventually added it in. -
By elohim_imanu · Posted
I did manage to do this without removing the engine or front cross member, but I had the advantage that the exhaust manifold was removed. I am not setup to support the engine from the top or remove it. 1. Loosen the engine mount nuts so they only have a nut of thread. If it is a manual, I think you have to remove the gearbox to engine support brackets. 2. Jack up the engine off the bottom idler mount. Jack it up till the end of the slot and nut on the mount. You need this clearance to get the pan out at the rear of the engine. 3.Break the sealant seal to sump. I found a oil pan separator tool helpful to get it started. 4. The oil pick up can be removed with the gap available. 5. The oil pan can be removed now. 6. Before assembling, do not apply sealant to the oil pick up area as your hand will rub it all off but apply to the other three and a bit sides. 7. It is a two man job to put the oil pan back, with the sealant, as you do not want it to touch anything and rub off. 8. With one person supporting the oil pan the other can fit the oil pickup 9. Apply the remaining sealant. This would be more difficult with the manifold or turbo in place, but I think it could be done. As you can see my sealant is a bit ugly, but good enough to seal. 10. Lift the sump up to the engine and bolt it on. We found it was easier to use two long guide bolts at each end to get it nice and aligned without touching.
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