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Hey guys, stock afm's maxed about at 410 rwhp and 16psi, there's a fair bit more in the turbos and am looking for max 400rwk, has anyone done the RB20 swap? As far as i'm aware it's a menu option on the pfc- what's involved in wiring these in? are the plugs simple cut and shut? Other options are Z32- you have to cut and shut the plugs for these to yes? The nismo option seems to be similar in cost and without plug mods so feedback welcome- cheers!

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nismo afms are my pick, but new NISSAN Z32s work well too. I have seen a fair few people having problem with the bosch sourced Z32s though. plenty of people use them without problem, but like I said Ive seen quite a few with problems too. so yeah, for me it's nismo or nissan genuine Z32.

Thanks for the feedback fellas, like the idea of new afm's too- speaking to a wrecker I use a bit he reckons RB25 series 1 and rb20 afm's are the same deal, and 125 ea. as opposed to the minimum grand for the newbies. I could almost justify selling the pfc and getting a map sensor based ecu and with not having to buy new afm's not being too out of pocket at the end of the day also.

Twin rb20 or 25 AFM.s should do the job with only the larger piping causing issues. Should be able to get them on here for around $50 each. IMO twin z32's are overkill, as they will max out at over 500rwkw, and have poorer tuning resolution compared to 20/25 units.

See for yourself the air flow volumes versus the voltage output. By my reading there is sod all between the Nismo & the Z32's. The main difference is the Nismo item can be fitted to a stock airbox.

http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...26dett.html#afm

I would be interested in seeing the same curves for the Rb20/Rb25 units as I have heard some widely different stories about their capacities.

DO NOT USE NON GENUINE AFM.

We have had so much proplem's with aftermarket cheap copies that customer's source from who know's where.

Use genuine only.

We have OEM Z32 AFM in stock if that help's.

You will need to re-wire them in to suit but if you need info, more than willing to help.

Genuine Nismo are VERY good but make sure its genuine from nismo, not a cheap ebay copy, buyer beware (Ebay)

Edited by EFI Performance

Just on AFM's

Even though 2nd handies are cheap - they fail too often.

Maybe its my dumb luck, but ive had 2x bung sets of AFM's now in 6 months on my car.

One set failed big time, the other set i have in there now are slowly failing so no doubt will be stuffed in a month or 3...

So long term, the new AFM's might come out cheaper, i just dont have 1k for Nismo's at the moment, and i cant find a decent set of 2nd hand GTR AFM's to get my by lol.

Also too,

Make sure they are mounted correctly. More often than not a failed AFM is the result of broken solder joins in the AFM.

If they are bouncing around the engine bay this is accelrated quite rapidly.

6 months for an AFM, Id be looking at another cause of the problem. An AFM component failure under normal opperating conditions is actually pretty rare.

Yeah RB26 ones - when you think about it... they are 15years old give or take.

So it comes as no surprise to me :)

Dont worry about my mounting or anything, its all firm. I had a set in there that were fine, they were a loan set from a mate and worked flawlessly... but i had to give them back :P

So its not the plugs, i've done the whole trial/error thing so im 100% its the AFM's playing up.

They were both 2nd hand sets (stuffed ones), so im not surprised. New or known low KM ones have always been fine

I mean most Elec based things with Nissan seem to last about that time.

Coil packs, CAS, AFM, Ignitor - all seem to play up much more pronounced after the 10year marker is crossed, and 15years, just go buy a new one if it fails if you can afford.

I just need to find a genuine low KM set that hasnt been bashed around!

Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you dont!

Just in case anyone wants to know, the RB20 series 2/R33series1 afm's plug straight into the rb26, you can even stretch the inlet pipes over the 80mm rubber inlet snout on the front turbo, you need a pice of 3'' bent pipe to do the rear around the power steering res. Running 20psi reading 4.5 volts. And they're cheap.

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