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I have a very near brand new forged motor for sale and turbo kit. If you are looking for a new motor without wanting to wait this motor is for you at a fraction of a price of doing it yourself.

Here are the following details:

N1 24U Iron block (R34) - done 1500klms heat cycled, major prep work done for 1000hp+

Trust/Greddy 2.7ltr full kit: forged pistons, forged conrods, full billet counterweight crankshaft

Carr Conrod bolts

ACL race bearings

Tomei gasket kit

Tomei Restrictor Plug

Greddy Oil pump

Trust sump extension

N1 water pump

Custom head work by Bullet Heads 1300Hp+ same pattern as Willal Racing GTR

HKS 280’ in/ex camshafts

HKS valve springs

HKS cam gears

HKS timing belt

ARP Head studs - with block if sold with motor

ARP Main Studs - with block if sold with motor

Bronze valve guides

Tomei Valves

Stainless buckets

Stainless retainers

HKS GT3037s 56t twin turbo kit - $8000

Short Motor - $14,000

Long Motor - $22,000

Genuine reason for sale, a full drag cement motor has been ordered, this Trust 2.7ltr is good for street and drags up to 9 sec bracket.

NO LOW BALL OFFERS!

Pics on request. Motor on low boost 1.6bar with very minimal timing, undialled cams, and 11.0 AFR's did over 600hp at the wheels on PUMP fuel.

Further tuning would see in excess of 700hp easily at the wheels at 1.8bar. Race fuel tune @ 2 bar would be estimated at 850hp+ at the wheels.

Very strong motor, like new, i have in theory bedded it in and run a low boost tune in it to get it used to boost. These figures were obtained with a HKS

GT3037s twin kit.

I cant see the value in leaving this motor in the garage not being used, rather obtain as much money back as possible from the build.

pm me if genuinely interested.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249028-full-forged-motor-dragstreet-set-up/
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very weird... clearly you have stated the price you believe is fair and for a built monster motor like that you are correct.. guess velocity will have to get more then the change in his ashtray to get some decent parts.

GL with it!

garage saurus in Japan use the same stroker kit for 1050hp at the wheels in the orange R32 GTR, keir Wilson uses the same head on his RB31 R32 GTR which is within 1000hp territory aswell... Both head and bottom end are in the 1000hp at the treads territory.

Update:

Motor will be removed in 2 weeks so any possible buyers wanting to inspect should make arrangements etc.

Willing to trade stock motor and cash to make full payment.

Edited by OS30GK

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    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
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