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Harmonic Balancer/crank Bolt

YaskY

By YaskY,
in General Maintenance

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YaskY Collaborator

YaskY

Posted
Posted

im trying to change my timing belt on my r33 gtr, but cant budge the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer on.

is there any special way to take this off??

ie, reverse thread maybe?

things ive tried already:

* 1/2" rattle gun - no good

* chocking up the balancer and pole at the end of breakerbar - no good- ended up breaking a bit off the balancer and bent the 1/2" T-handle breaker bar.

* putting the 30mm socket on the bolt and wedging the breaker bar against the car and turning the key - no good.

* impact driver - no good

any other suggestions?

cheers collin

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sean33 Newbie

sean33

Posted
Posted
im trying to change my timing belt on my r33 gtr, but cant budge the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer on.

is there any special way to take this off??

ie, reverse thread maybe?

things ive tried already:

* 1/2" rattle gun - no good

* chocking up the balancer and pole at the end of breakerbar - no good- ended up breaking a bit off the balancer and bent the 1/2" T-handle breaker bar.

* putting the 30mm socket on the bolt and wedging the breaker bar against the car and turning the key - no good.

* impact driver - no good

any other suggestions?

cheers collin

hey how ya goin?

im new to this site as of tonight, not sure if any one has replied to this yet but oh well,

the only other thing i can suggest is to make more room to get a 3/4 rattle gun in there, keep changing the direction so blast it in undo position the change direction, keep doing that, it is normal right hand thread, i'd say its very badly lock tighted or rusted on, maybe spray sum crc in there

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

The RB26 has a much larger torque tightness compared to the RB25 bolt but you could try this as it works for me.

Get a nice long breaker bar on the end of the socket.

Get someone to put the car into gear and stomp the brakes as hard as they can.

Put your entire weight into the breaker bar.

Wait for the loud crack and then you slam your knuckles into something in the engine bay.

Swear continually for 5 or so minutes.

That's how i always get mine off.

PS: I warned you about the smashing your knuckles into something lol

doo doo Proficient

doo doo

Posted
Posted

Yep she's a bugger- I can get mine off with the 3/4'' rattle gun but it's too big to fit in the space with the engine in the car. So I last used a 3/4'' breaker bar and put a metre long steel tube over the end (thick sectioned), car in gear and brakes on (some one on the pedal would be good as mine dragged the handbrake before it cracked, put it in 5th) and a whole lot of weight on the thing, cracked eventually.

grigor Rising Star

grigor

Posted
Posted
cheers for the suggestions guys,

i will try the 5th gear and foot on the brake manuvore!

ill let yas know how i go tomo.

cheers again

FFS Don't use 5th gear, only ever use 4th.

1/2" rattle gun is only a toy and even 3/4" or 1" depends on having a massive air supply.

I can't see you fitting a rattle gun in there anyway, so use a decent socket set, at least 3/4" drive, tee brace and a length of pipe.

PUDZ 32R Enthusiast

PUDZ 32R

Posted
Posted

what i had2 do with mine is take the radiator out and lift the aircon rad up as far as u can without taking the hoses off. this lets u (just) get a socket in there with a 3/4 rattle gun with a few extentions. also a few well placed knocks with a hammer on the bolt will help jolt any rust etc.

i find inox is a better penetrant than crc etc.

u will then need a GOOD QUALITY harmonic balancer puller. as u require a shitload of force on the 2 6mm bolts 2 get it off. cheap 1s will shit themselves. expect to pay $70 upwards for a good kit.

also when u use the puller make sure the bolt is in half way so u dont go burring the crank thread with the center of the puller.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted
u will then need a GOOD QUALITY harmonic balancer puller. as u require a shitload of force on the 2 6mm bolts 2 get it off. cheap 1s will shit themselves. expect to pay $70 upwards for a good kit.

Umm no idea where you got that from, i use a slightly modified $15 puller and its a piece of piss to use.

PUDZ 32R Enthusiast

PUDZ 32R

Posted
Posted

i could not get a cheap regular puller to fit in between the aircon rad and the engine is all. and mine took shitload of force to get to move. but it has been on there for 18 years. younger cars prob wont need much force.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Old school trick - set up a socket on a breaker bar. The bar needs to reach the chassis rail. Socket on the pulley bolt, rotate the engine around until the end of the bar is resting on the passenger chassis rail. Now...

... hit the starter motor.

No skinned knuckles either.

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