Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am Wrecking a Wine Red 1994 R33 GTS25t

It is a Repairable Write-off (It has been checked through REVS)

Located in Sydney, pick up preferred.

Gearbox SOLD

Brakes and rotors $600 Including hubs $800

Rear cradle $200

Diff $200

Driveshaft (gearbox to diff) $150

Driveshafts (diff to hubs) $60 each or $100 pair

Rear bar $100

Drivers side door (complete) $350

Front RHS guard $100

Rear window $100

Boot spoiler $100

Dashboard $100

Dash facia $100

PM me if there is anything that your after that isn't on the list.

Edited by PLYNX
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249084-wrecking-wine-red-1994-r33-gts25t/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

recently the motor for the electric windows failed on my car. I'm finding it quite difficult to source was wondering if you still had the motor for the drivers side window

in after the cat oxy sensor. its the sensor that bolts into the cat converter. how far are you from blacktown sydney?? and how much for postage to qld 4500?? pm me

Edited by 510ONE
I am Wrecking a Wine Red 1994 R33 GTS25t

It is a Repairable Write-off (It has been checked through REVS)

Located in Sydney, pick up preferred.

Gearbox SOLD

Brakes and rotors $600 Including hubs $800

Rear cradle $200

Diff $200

Driveshaft (gearbox to diff) $150

Driveshafts (diff to hubs) $60 each or $100 pair

Rear bar $100

Drivers side door (complete) $350

Front RHS guard $100

Rear window $100

Boot spoiler $100

Dashboard $100

Dash facia $100

PM me if there is anything that your after that isn't on the list.

gday mate do you still have the tailshaft and will it fit in an auto gear box contact andrew on 0402758509 asap in despirate need of it cheers

I also have a brand new Nissan RB25 Head gasket - $60

2 climate control units ( yes the OFF and AUTO buttons are straight ) $60 each

Edited by PLYNX

hey there man

i'm looking for

crank angel sensor, gearbox crossmember, power steering pump, water pump pulley, harmonic balancer, heater tap, clutch fan

PM me price if you can help

Thanks Nat

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
    • Just be warned that that turbo will not be a direct re-fit to the car. The exhaust housing is, of course, in the same place. It has to be - it's bolted to the exhaust manifold. So the dump will fit up. But the centre housing is not as long, so the comp housing will move backwards. This will affect both the turbo inlet and the outlet. There is fab work that needs to be done. Yes. it has one, it should have one. Paper gasket.
    • I only recently purchased the vehicle, it came with the flex setup but the current tune is e85 only, which is why im wanting to get the tune redone to enable a mixture.  First i need to get the exhaust redone tho. I was thinking of getting a varex muffler but it sems they dont fit well in the 33 (hang low because of the valve mechanism which sticks out on top) and generally dont sound good. So that leaves me with redoing the entire exhaust (more resonators and mufflers) so its not a menace when i come and go from home, and then have the aes dump valve somewhere along the line to really open it up. I was thinking of having it before the cat but after seeing how insanely loud it will be (on a vl turbo) im thinking of putting it more towards the rear of the car, after one of the resonators. 
    • At this point I'm just 'hoping' it's the turbo seals. I did speak to someone who said it's normal for these turbos to have a bit of axial play? Not gonna lie I've never checked a turbo for axial play before but you could hear it tapping a bit as I moved it back and forth. Surely that's too much? My theory is (could be completely wrong), bad axial play, worn bearings, bad seals, oil into dump/compressor side, burns in exhaust = blue smoke. On a timing belt related note, my crank pulley was missing that front plate that sits in front of the timing belt. It's that metal round plate. It did have the rear one, and the woodruff keys are in the crank which was nice. Can anyone confirm if the NEO det engine has a front plate, im sure it would to protect the front of the timing belt or something. Water pumps...the pump I got was an NPW (yes grill me if I should've got a genuine one lol). It has a smooth mating surface, kit came with a pretty pathetic looking paper gasket. Do I need to use any RTV or just trust the gasket will work because its a smooth mating surface? Cheers legends have a good Easter break!
×
×
  • Create New...