Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there,i want to run a big single turbo on my GTR,first question is running a big turbo on a gtr is it required that i rebuild the motor,or maybe the question is whats the biggest turbo i can run on a standard motor,im not opening the motor yet apart from HKS step 2 cams and gears.i do understand its not going to get much boost in a standard motor,but i want to see what i can make without opening the bottom end.the cams will help with high cylinder pressures

i have a T88-34D and can also get a GT45.and iv heard i can get a TO4Z

i know what the first question will be and yes i dont care about lag,there will be heaps and i know,i use to own and pilot a 7 second rx3,so i know what it takes to drive something like this.

im not new to GTRs but have always just been a sheep and run small singles.i want big.

any and all advise is greatly appreciated .

You can make any figure, how long will it last though?

If you want it to last - GT35, about as big as you can push a stock bottom end reliably.

Otherwise, if you have the money there for the rebuild, boost away with whatever your wallet can afford

Big turbos... which make big power... and stock bottom ends, don't last. So no point having a big turbo if your not chasing big power

Im running a t04z on my GTR and it goes good. After a few problems with fuel delivery i've now got 337awkw's at 14psi. Stock bottom end with 260 Tomei poncams , Vipec ecu and supporting mods.

It is abit laggy, fullboost is at 4500rpm which isnt too bad, considering the n1 turbos i was running before was 4000rpm.

But im not going to be running anymore boost until i rebuild the engine as it simply wont last.

i just spoke to my machanic and he sugested the to4z.he said 350-375 kws....

im also looking at a GT45,the machanic has a R33 GTR with one of these big boys on it,runs 18psi and make over 650hp.

yes the bottom end is done but it was metioned that it was driveing on 12psi for 12 months making 510hp all day everyday before the bottom end rebuid.

350-370rwkw is right in the meat for GT35 territory mate :nyaanyaa:

a T04Z will run off 440rwkw, so unless your looking for that...

There is a big thread on GT35/T04Z going at the moment with lots of information for either side so you can make your own call there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...