Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If your having too much knock problems even with a good tune install a water methanol injection kit cheap insurance and higher timing + you won't blow the internals too quickly, my na+t two years still going hard! Rebuild it later

  • Like 1

Will post a link, or type boost cooler into search and one guy has a full write up on it, the kit is 648 and should only take 2hours to install and basically sprays a mist as boost rises to prevent detonation as the load increases so does the mist, you get a 2l tank which you mix 50% methanol and water the guy who did the write up says 2l lasts a full tank, so I'm going this path soon will post my own results later

Bhp any different to hp? Because 310 hp is why wytsky got of bhp is different than that would be higher number

I'll post my results when I get home it's too hard from the iPhone

Ok now that ive done my research the brits measure power output at the engine not at the wheels so your 315bhp is around 235kw at the engine there's no way you'll make more than 220rwkw on an old stock r33 turbo in other words your rwkw figure is around 185rwkw

And now that I've seen the graph it's actually 185rwkw so 250hp at the weels so your down 60hp on him + he's got 4wd so that's at all 4 wheels

brits measure in both fly and wheel/hub and mine is 315bhp at the hubs which is 378 at the fly on a standard r33 gtst turbo at 10.13 psi boost,i don't know where you did your research but its wrong,my 1st dyno was 301bhp at the hubs at 8psi boost and i still have meth/water to put on but i have not had the time yet

Edited by lammy426

Whatever everyone knows the r33 stock turbo will shit itself at 220rwkw and sometimes quicker, just saying your graph is saying it's flywheel hp anyway enough said not gonna argue about it but just going off your graph, later!

Ps I don't know anyone making 224rwkw with 8psi on the stock turbo... Do you? That's why your wrong!

Edited by DaGr81
Whatever everyone knows the r33 stock turbo will shit itself at 220rwkw and sometimes quicker, just saying your graph is saying it's flywheel hp anyway enough said not gonna argue about it but just going off your graph, later!

Ps I don't know anyone making 224rwkw with 8psi on the stock turbo... Do you? That's why your wrong!

they use their old paperwork on a new dyno,and the inlet plenum makes 40/50 bhp more than stock and electric fan gives 3/5bhp,cold air forced fed, and 224kw is probably on a low comp engine an ordinary gtst,i've been a mechanic for over 30 years,but obviously you know more,by the way there is a post on skylineowners.com which states thor racing say its fly bhp but its really hub bhp. i want to see what n-dawg comes up with if he gets 10 psi he should get around 300/310 at the fly bhp that is as a mate of mine as, and a member on here called shawny <a href='http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showpos...mp;postcount=23' rel='nofollow' target="_blank" onclick="java script:urchinTracker('/outgoing/www_skylineowners_com');">http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showpos...mp;postcount=23</a> http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showpos...mp;postcount=21 http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showpos...mp;postcount=24

Edited by lammy426

By saying you make 378 hp at the engine is even worse your saying that you make only 22hp less than what a 400r gtr makes when it rolled out of the factory... Either way I have not seen plenums make 37rwkw (50hp) on a engine which only has minor bolt ons and a tune.... Everyone comes up with the excuse "I've been a mechanic for bla bla years..." give it a rest if your a mechanic why didn't you do your own install...

Enough said cya later key board warrior

By saying you make 378 hp at the engine is even worse your saying that you make only 22hp less than what a 400r gtr makes when it rolled out of the factory... Either way I have not seen plenums make 37rwkw (50hp) on a engine which only has minor bolt ons and a tune.... Everyone comes up with the excuse "I've been a mechanic for bla bla years..." give it a rest if your a mechanic why didn't you do your own install...

Enough said cya later key board warrior

i did do everything myself except the mapping and the alli welding,if i had the facilaties i'd do it all,i've watched sau for a few years and you are a muppet you have not read the posts properly,all i want to do at the end off the day is help skyline owners to get the most out of thier cars,if you continue to disbelieve me and nobody cares what i have learned over years of trial and error. and the cars been running 300+ath for 2 years + at the moment

  • 2 weeks later...

well, its actually a gts4 box, apparently they are as good as the gtr's, so I have heard....

and I got the car dynoed, need to upload the sheets, got 220-230rwkw. but had boost spiking with my bleed valve :angry: so getting a gizzmo. we also think my exhaust is being a little restirctive because it has a large dent in it.

wytsky, are you using the standard rb25de gearbox or did you change to a 25det?

i'm still using a standard rb25de box with an r32 gtr exedy clutch,for about 2 years and its been ok so far

Here is the current dyno.... as you can see, there is pretty bad boost leak between about 4500-6000 ...1.3 bar is about 17psi i think?? fair bit for an n/a.... im not happy with, especially considering it was making more power then this on a solid 14psi with no creep...

the green is before, and the red is after, so there was a little more poke down low before, but uptop theres a little more now.

ordering the gizzmo next week, then back on the dyno, testing exhaust, and bits and pieces. so hopefully we can get the last 1500 rpm to point up high and get a good figure... instead of looking like an old man's set of knackers :D

Adam

post-36975-1232629380_thumb.jpg post-36975-1232629423_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

hehe, nar different dyno, different formula and measurement of working out torque... he believed it was quite alot for the power the car is making.... I'd love to know the conversion formulas between dynos if they exist or any1 knows.... so I can compare between.

Model - R34 25GT Sedan

Engine - RB25DE NEO

Modifications / Parts Used - RB25DET Factory Exhaust Manifold, R33 Series 2 Turbo, JJR Front/Dump Pipe, Custom 3" Mandrel Bend Catback system with 5" canon tip, Magnaflow Hi-Flow Cat, R34 GTT Injectors, Walbro GSS342 Fuel Pump, Monsta Performance FMIC Kit, Turbo XS Recirculating BOV, Apexi Power Intake Air Filter, custom speed flow oil and water hoses with speed flow fittings, extra silicon bends (90deg short silicone bend and 90deg long silicone bend), new set NGK Iridium spark plugs, heat shielding, factory piping (turbo inlet, hot pipe from the turbo), oil pressure switch adaptor, T3 foot gasket.

Engine Management Used - GReddy eManage Blue with optional Injector and Ignition Harnesses and Ignition Signal Adapter for R34.

Fuel Used - BP Ultimate 98

Boost Used - 7 PSI (straight off the RB25 Actuator)

Dyno Tune Results - 211.9HP

Misc - New coilpacks will probably net a bit more gain, fried one same day after having conversion done. Splitfires on the way. Also been told that the dyno used tends to read a lot lower (10-25kw in some cases) but I'm not going for big power figures just yet. Auto transmission + N/A+t = not so great, will definitely do the valve body upgrade. Also on an R34 i advise changing the intake plenum/manifold.

All up it actually took more than 29.5 Hours charged, the workshop put extra labour in here and there on their own time (this also included after sales service such as temporary coilpack replacement and additional tuning after fitting the BOV). If another workshop done the same job it could easily be a lot more.

Spend extra on a decent FMIC kit. I got mine very cheap (lucky ebay bid) but the piping was pathetic and added to the install time, not to mention otherwise unnecessary cutting of the black plastic grill in the front bar simply so the modified piping could line up.

Splitfire Coilpacks will easily add $640 to the cost as well, but I see things like the coilpacks and spark plugs to be a maintenance thing anyway. We all know that R34 coilpacks don't last forever. Note that coilpacks aren't fitted yet...probably won't know what extra power it may add either, but people seem to report that they pull a few extra KW's with them.

Costs - Parts: $2,800-3,000 Approximate Labour & Tuning (29.5hrs labour incl. 4-6 Hours Dyno Tuning and install of the eManage): $2600.00

Dyno Graph

DynoUploadLarge.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you are fine with China turbos, Maxpeedingrods makes a bolt on turbo. Ive had mine for two summers now and it seems to be holding up ok. 
    • Howdy all Im in a little predicament and wondering what everyone’s thoughts are? I’ve had my long block rebuilt and am in the market for a turbo due to my old one having metal shavings from crank bearings (cause of rebuild) go throughout the turbos oil lines and there wheel has a little play. I’m not really aiming for any power, just trying to keep it as oem as possible, but I can’t find a turbo that’s built for the stock ecu or find something that would be a standard replacement. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions 
    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
×
×
  • Create New...