Jump to content
SAU Community

N/a+t Power Results - N/a +t Turbo Conversions Only

N-DAWG

By N-DAWG,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 187
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

DaGr81
DaGr81

If your having too much knock problems even with a good tune install a water methanol injection kit cheap insurance and higher timing + you won't blow the internals too quickly, my na+t two years stil

666DAN
666DAN

Good work Nath, what ECU are you using now? I think freeing up the butterfly constantly will help a fair bit I put some gauges in the DIN mainly as there was no other option, they were nice and neat

blk94r33
blk94r33

Few changes made from last time (tune related only listed): -Turbo hi-flowed by Hypergear, 12 psi actuator -Fuel pressure raised to ~50 psi, stock injectors at ~90% -Full CES racing 3" exhaust -La

Posted Images

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted
hey mate

Im thinking of getting the hypergear turbo...wat u think of them? good for wat there worth?

Are you talking to me? if so, even though some of us have chats in this thread, pm me instead to keep this one tidier... but if your asking... they go well, but having a lil wastegate creep issues atm.... ie the boost is set to 15psi but leaks up to 17.x Psi, probably due to a larger amount of exhuast gases due to n/a high compression then standard gtst... looking at possibly going a bigger turbo in the future to stop this issue.

Unfortunetly I don't know what your car is... so can't say how it may go on it...

Adam

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

ext gate = easy to tell illegal... not that my setup isn't now... but I guess somewhat easier to hide with my custom heatsheild. Not to say I havent thought about it in the future.... ive been looking at int gate gt3076r's, but i've been in a skyline with an ext gate 300rwkw Trust Td06-20g and it is insane! and similar price... so both are an option :) cheers mate

Squishy Experienced

Squishy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Model - R32 Gtst

Engine - RB25DE

Modifications / Parts Used - Garret 3071r, kkr external gate & screamer, tune agent ex. manifold, greddy copy plenium, 60mm throtle body, cometic 1.8mm headgasket, nismo 550cc injectors, fmic, sard fuel pressure reg... etc.

Engine Management Used - apexi power fc

Fuel Used - BP Ultimate 98

Boost Used - 1 bar

Dyno Tune Results - 372.5HP

Misc- Other Details, on semi slick tyres (apparently this can effect the power reading)

Costs - Parts: roughly 5k

Dyno Graph -

posta230340cimg0082.th.jpg

Edited by RB_turbo_bitch
N-DAWG Mentor

N-DAWG

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh sweet! Once again goes to show how strong the DE's are! I thought you were running stock pistons just with new bearings till I read this in the article: "That’s why the engine has been rebuilt from the ground up and strengthened with ACL main and big end race bearings."

So what compression is it running now with that gasket? I've had a couple of tuners advise against doing the gasket method as with still running the N/A pistons the only benefit is running more boost and losing the high compression response, but I guess this proves that wrong to an extent, and if you had the engine opened for the bearings then from a cost point of view it makes sense to do the gasket as well.

How is it as far as temps go? Particularly between street driving and track. I notice there's no mention of oil coolers and bigger radiator. Is it simply a case of just not really necessary even on a high powered N/A+t build?

Squishy Experienced

Squishy

Posted
Posted
oh sweet! Once again goes to show how strong the DE's are! I thought you were running stock pistons just with new bearings till I read this in the article: "That’s why the engine has been rebuilt from the ground up and strengthened with ACL main and big end race bearings."

So what compression is it running now with that gasket? I've had a couple of tuners advise against doing the gasket method as with still running the N/A pistons the only benefit is running more boost and losing the high compression response, but I guess this proves that wrong to an extent, and if you had the engine opened for the bearings then from a cost point of view it makes sense to do the gasket as well.

How is it as far as temps go? Particularly between street driving and track. I notice there's no mention of oil coolers and bigger radiator. Is it simply a case of just not really necessary even on a high powered N/A+t build?

lol.. found the hpi huh. :laugh:

I have stock pistons, thats correct.

The stock RB25DE runs a 11:1 ratio, so with the thicker head gasket i think my DE+T is around 9.5:1.

With the radiator, my stock rb20 was rusted out and temps were getting as high as 100, so earlier this year (3 years on) i put a bigger alloy one in. On the street the temp sits at about 75, and on the track between 85 and 90. No oil cooler, just an oil change after every event to be on the safe side.

SKYL1N Mentor

SKYL1N

Posted
Posted

Im on my P's now with a rb25de with around 150,000 on the clock.

in about 8 months time i will be doing a turbo conversion.

is 200rwkw an easily achievable target and is there any major issues to look out for when doing this. some very nice cars and figures on here by the way.

lammy426 Enthusiast

lammy426

Posted
Posted
lol.. found the hpi huh. :)

I have stock pistons, thats correct.

The stock RB25DE runs a 11:1 ratio, so with the thicker head gasket i think my DE+T is around 9.5:1.

With the radiator, my stock rb20 was rusted out and temps were getting as high as 100, so earlier this year (3 years on) i put a bigger alloy one in. On the street the temp sits at about 75, and on the track between 85 and 90. No oil cooler, just an oil change after every event to be on the safe side.

is this power at the flywheel,and the stock comp on the rb25de is 10:1 according to the manual

  • 2 weeks later...
dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted

Model - R34 25GT 5spd

Engine - RB25DE+T

Modifications - Turbonetics Stage 2 T3/T04 turbo (laggy mofo) w/ 38mm turbosmart ultragate, fmic, GTR bov, 3" catback + 2.5" dump/front/cat, nismo adj fuel reg, r33 GTR fuel pump, Exedy sports tuff HD cushion button clutch

coming soon: 550cc hiflow injectors, 3" custom dump & front pipes, 3" hi flow cat, turbotech bleed valve @ 14psi & retune

Engine Management Used - eManage Ultimate + ignition chip for neo RB's

Fuel Used - 98 Octane (Mobil 8000 to be exact but i use V power, vortex & mobil)

Boost Used - 9 PSI but boost won't hold after 5500pm, it keeps rising.

Dyno Tune Results - 184.2 rwkw

Misc- boosting the c*nt up to 14-15 so hopefully net myself a good figure and some monsterous torque. atm it boost spikes & keeps climbing after 5500rpm, it hit 201 at 12-13psi @6400rpm. have since changed the wastegate spring to a softer and smaller spring (7psi which feels like a$$ now) so hopefully it fixes the boost issue, going to install a turbotech bleed valve and set it to 14psi and in for another dyno run in 2 weeks.

p.s it does hectic skids :down:

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
dori34 Grand Master

dori34

Posted
Posted
Model - R34 25GT 5spd

Engine - RB25DE+T

Modifications - Turbonetics Stage 2 T3/T04 turbo (laggy mofo) w/ 38mm turbosmart ultragate, fmic, GTR bov, 3" catback + 2.5" dump/front/cat, nismo adj fuel reg, r33 GTR fuel pump, Exedy sports tuff HD cushion button clutch

coming soon: 550cc hiflow injectors, 3" custom dump & front pipes, 3" hi flow cat, turbotech bleed valve @ 14psi & retune

Engine Management Used - eManage Ultimate + ignition chip for neo RB's

Fuel Used - 98 Octane (Mobil 8000 to be exact but i use V power, vortex & mobil)

Boost Used - 9 PSI but boost won't hold after 5500pm, it keeps rising.

Dyno Tune Results - 184.2 rwkw

Misc- boosting the c*nt up to 14-15 so hopefully net myself a good figure and some monsterous torque. atm it boost spikes & keeps climbing after 5500rpm, it hit 201 at 12-13psi @6400rpm. have since changed the wastegate spring to a softer and smaller spring (7psi which feels like a$$ now) so hopefully it fixes the boost issue, going to install a turbotech bleed valve and set it to 14psi and in for another dyno run in 2 weeks.

p.s it does hectic skids :)

changed to a 7psi spring & fixed boost creeping problem.

used a manual bleeder to set it to 10psi, tihs bleed held 10psi dead FLAT with no spike and it pulled 180rwkw & 499nM of torque.

car is going back in next weekend for a EBC tune 10psi (low) 14psi (high)

profec B Spec 2.

hopefully get some decent torque & power out of this.

if its near maxing my injectors & afms then im gonna go for 550cc hiflow + emanage map sensor and piss off the stock afm.

ideally i want to run 14psi on high boost but ill let the tuner do it slowly from 11psi and see which is safest without any knocking etc.

also got a 3" dump/front & catco cat as well, also removed the silencers from my exhaust so it shouldn;t be as restrictive as before.

one problem tho, im running 18" work vskf now so it might weight it down ;)

post up results/dyno sheet next weekend.

RB TUrbo BITCH at what RPM does it hit full boost?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
lammy426 Enthusiast

lammy426

Posted
Posted
model, gts25 engine,rb25de

mods,r33gtst turbo,xs power 3"exhaust,480cc injectors,power fc,modified plenum,fmic,25 row oil coolerfuel, shell v-power

boost,10.13 psidyno,378 bhp atf,6670rpm

costs,parts £3100,labour £0graph, sorry thats an old dyno sheet i'll get a more recent one

got a remap today,extra mods are 62 degree thermostat,meth/water injection and upped the boost to 12.3 psi

post-46611-1266258781_thumb.jpg

post-46611-1266258794_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

i was just looking through this thread and saw the discussion about lammy426's power figures. you have to remember he is in england, and it's winter over there, so nice chilly air temps which will give much better power. if he was to bring it to australia and run it on a 30 degree day it would ping it's arse off and he would be making much less power. also lammy, you say "at the hubs" does that mean you are using a hub dyno? if so, they are known to give different results to wheel dynos

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      R32gtr sputtering and stalling

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • MBS206
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Duncan
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • GTSBoy
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
    • eli995
      NPboosted manifold fitting purpose

      By eli995 · Posted

      Ok gotcha, so one post to fpr  another to bov  and I have the mishimoto boost controller and a link g4+ so I’d just have the tuner set it up properly. For the last two from plenum post throttle to  ecu/ boost controller, I know that I have a hose coming from the ecu that I was confused about so I assume that’s what connect to the boost controller from the ecu? And then the last is just from plenum to boost controller then to wastegate?
×
×
  • Create New...