Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's my situation I've got my 32 witch has been t-boned has rb20det ( 264s, gtx3071 with r33 rear, power fc and all the mods to suit) 252kw (no torque )

I've also got a laurel with a rb25 de. I'm unsure if its worth putting all my parts from my rb20 stuff into the rb25de.

Any advice or help would be much appreciated

  • 1 month later...

What are peoples thoughts on using an rb20det ECU with nistune on a series 2 rb25de+t?

waste of time, just get a Z32 ECU (if you're adamant on using Nistune) if not get an old PowerFC for cheap

  • 3 months later...

Model - A31 cefiro

Engine - RB25DE series 1

Modifications / Parts Used - completely stock un open or modified block and head. garet turbo stainless top mount manifould, sard 650cc injectors, hdi intercooler kit,38mm wastgate

Engine Management Used - Link G4 plug in

Fuel Used - 95 octane and E30 ethanole

Boost Used - 8psi on petrol and 12psi on E30

Dyno Tune Results - 290hp on petrol and 360hp on E30

Misc- when preforming a de+t you have a reasonably strong base engine package to begin with. but the one problem you will always face is detonation due to your compression ratio puls your trying to force feed it more air. to combat this I used ethanol blend witch burns far cooler there for lowering your risk of detonation and the ability to run more boost= more power! I have used and abused this engine package for 3 years now with no issues to the (still) stock standard engine package. to this day I still recommend people to use a plus T engine overr a standard turbo engine

Costs - Parts: $4,000 Labour: $0.00 Tuning: $2,000

post-134574-0-97995800-1399762944_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

Hey guys im currently doing an RB25de NEO +T conversion for my R33 track car. I want to use a forward facing plenum but the intake ports on the head are smaller than the FFP ports. Anyone running a FFP on there RB25de NEO turbo engine? The plans are are a GT3076, ID2000 injectors, microtech, extenal gate on a modded 25det turbo manifold. I really dont want to use the factory 25DE inlet manifold.

Cheers guys

has anyone had any issues fitting a standard RB25det turbo manifold onto an RB25de NEO? Looks as if i need to die grind the holes in the manifold where it bolts up to the studs. Have tried 2 different standard 25 turbo manifolds and same thing on both. Not a big problem, just wondering if anyone has had the same thing happen

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys im currently doing an RB25de NEO +T conversion for my R33 track car. I want to use a forward facing plenum but the intake ports on the head are smaller than the FFP ports. Anyone running a FFP on there RB25de NEO turbo engine? The plans are are a GT3076, ID2000 injectors, microtech, extenal gate on a modded 25det turbo manifold. I really dont want to use the factory 25DE inlet manifold.

Cheers guys

wrong thread man...... now its all spammed up ...

booooooo

anyway ask questions here --> http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33407-how-to-turbo-your-na/page-42

now someone make me into a mod....muhahaha SAU domination :verymad:

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...

MODEL: R32 gts

ENGINE: RB20DE

Mods/ parts: R32 gts ecu and injectors.

EBay intercooler kit. S1 rb25 turbo. Pod filter.

BOOST: 12PSI

FUEL: mostly 98 unleaded.

Standard 92 in country tassie when times are tough lot.

Power: don't know but beats modified V8 commodores and wrx's at powercruise.

Other notes: have now done 30,000kms thrashing the fu#k out of the old girl. Held back on posting a review for a couple of years because I don't want to give bad advice to people.

It's now been tested and all I can say is that a turbo setup on a Na with a standard turbo ecu with turbo injectors has the same reliability as a standard turbo engine.

Will try to get to a dyno soon.

cost: approx. $1000

(turbo,manifold, water and oil lines) $400

(ecu and injectors) $200

(exhaust downpipe, custom intake) $300

(other sh#t) $100

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 years later...

Greetings friends.
I am new to the topic but I see that you master it very well. I have 2 rb20 one aspirated and another turbo, I would like to know if it would be better to invest the money to the aspirate to get more profit or simply mix them.

Anyway, I've been thinking about doing the rb20 of + t but I would like to hear your opinion and recommendations.

Thank you.

6 minutes ago, Pedro_rosario said:

Greetings friends.
I am new to the topic but I see that you master it very well. I have 2 rb20 one aspirated and another turbo, I would like to know if it would be better to invest the money to the aspirate to get more profit or simply mix them.

Anyway, I've been thinking about doing the rb20 of + t but I would like to hear your opinion and recommendations.

Thank you.

Have you got two cars or just two engines? If the latter do up the turbo engine and drop it in. You will still need the ecu and loom and an intercooler of course.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
×
×
  • Create New...