Jump to content
SAU Community

Brand New Faulty Power Fc

sturb25

By sturb25,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
Posted (edited)

Anyway 2day was supposed to be the day i got my car dynoed with with my brand new power fc. My mechanic instaled the power fc and aparently theres a fault with it. He cant get the engine light to go off. Im pissed off because im going away to tassie for 2 weeks at the end of the year and i would of liked a bit more power to go with.

Edited by sturb25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249260-brand-new-faulty-power-fc/
Share on other sites
MyStag260 Rising Star

MyStag260

Posted
Posted

Damn man thats a shocker... my power FC has the check engine light flashing when the car is in accessory mode, goes off when ignition is on tho so it doesn't worry me ;) hahaha

Did you buy the unit new so can get a replacement??

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted (edited)

the engine check light is lit due to pin51 NOT getting about 3.7v

Pin51 is the traction control which is present on R34 GT-t's but not on S2 RS4S.

the engine can be tuned and run perfectly without setting up the correct voltage but you won't see the light flash if you have excessive knock or other engine checklight situations.

it is a small wiring job to get this light off. the answer of the correct voltage was supplied by EGA4IT.

it can be tuned quite happily if you want the power and it should run the car normally otherwise.

Edited by wolverine
sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Didnt work mate. could not get rid of the engine light. Going to take it to a Auto Elec while im down in tassie

Yeah i printed out about 20 pages on it and gave it to my mechanic and he reckons he tried the method suggested on page 1 and it didnt work. So he said he didnt want to try any more incase he stuffed my computer up which was fair enough. So im going to take it to a auto elect too see what they can do. Will let u know what i come up with. Thanks

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

that's a pain.

did you turn boost control off on the powerfc. default setting is on and if there is no apexi boost control that will throw up the check light as well. this is well known so i am presuming the mech switched this to off already.

if you have a commander go to sensor check and have a look there. check the boost control is set to off here too.

the powerfc faq that paulr33 has set up should help you do some trouble shooting from your end too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...