Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have RE01's on my gtr and did the track event at AHG. All I can say is that I am extremely impressed, they coped with 400hp@4w very well and I could apply power down on the turns without breaking out too much and when it did it was very predictable and easy to catch/counter, the grip was very very good, wear did not seem to be overly bad (save for a couple of harder than usual launches and some late in the day drifting).

Best price I have had is $495 fitted and balance per tyre which I thought was okay. Tyre noise is also very good on these

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ps. Tirerack is nowhere near the cheapest place in the states for tires, the problem is finding one of the others who ship to OZ from the WEST COAST of USA, and check the shipping times some could take a REALLY LONG TIME to come over. months????? if they come on a ship expect months.

Can you provide any suggestions of other places I can have a look at? A link would be most appreciated.

Cheers

i have RE01's on my gtr and did the track event at AHG. All I can say is that I am extremely impressed, they coped with 400hp@4w very well and I could apply power down on the turns without breaking out too much and when it did it was very predictable and easy to catch/counter, the grip was very very good, wear did not seem to be overly bad (save for a couple of harder than usual launches and some late in the day drifting).

Best price I have had is $495 fitted and balance per tyre which I thought was okay. Tyre noise is also very good on these

lol that's gotta suck, i picked up a pair of some basically brand new 245/50 R16 RE-01's a month or 2 back for about $50, came with 16x8.5 rims too, not to mention another pair of 16x7.5 rims with some crappy dunlops on them.

i thought it was a pretty good deal, but yes ur right, they f**king hold like nobody's business.

id be getting a quote from tirerack for the dunlops or even the RE-01's, it wouldnt surprise me if u can bring in tyres independently for less than what a tyre shop charges.

Hey Martin, I've been running Yokahama Advans on the front of my 33 (235/40ZR18), but they were a bit pricey when I asked about 265/35ZR18's on the rear at over $500 a pop.

I first had Hankook K104's, which I was quite disappointed in considering what I'd heard about them, cornered ok, but were especially poor at getting the power down.

After researching the Tyre thread on here and several other sources I went for Falken FK452's second time around, & have been very happy with them, better cornering grip & far superior straight line grip + they have been wearing better too. At $330 each they're not a budget tyre, but not insanely priced either.

Edited by J_Red33

i'm getting federal 595' rpm soon! atm moment i've got the 595 super steel and it ain't too bad for the price you pay. the only thing i camplain about them are the sidewalls. i'm getting them smaller than my current tyres for that bit of scretch

the side walls wash out during cornering which can cause the car to break out! it happens to all the tyres but the higher priced ones like semi's and so on have more strength around there! oh but i was impressed with the side walls on the dunlops, they didn't feel too bad!

Edited by nos man

Write off

this is one company that used to be cheaper then the tirerack and had a good service not sure if they sell and ship to OZ or not ?

http://www.bigotires.com/

this is another good place for cheap tires and good service.

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/home.do

not in California but these guys in Denver had decent stuff great prices as well, used to buy my RX7 and VR4 tires/rims from these guys

http://www.performancewheel.com/

dont forget I haven't been back to states to buy tires in a while now , but all of these companies have been around for a long time (more then 20years),so no shonky biz

hope this helps your search. Tire rack is still a option since its the largest ONLINE seller ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...