Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i gota just jap... was a bit of stuffin round but wasnt that bad, i left my heat sheild off aswell... not guna do any hard will it? just make my engin bay a little hotter if ne thing

I've got a 3" split dump on mine which doesn't have a mounting point for a heat shield. The guy who made it says it doesn't need a heat shield; apparently won't cook paint or melt aircon' drain pipe. I've run like that for a week now and I haven't noticed anything bad so far, just less ticking/heat noise when I turn the engine off which I put down to less cast iron in the system now :laugh:

  • 3 weeks later...

Well I've just done mine, 3" Bellmouth front/dump from JJR. Wasn't too bad i suppose, would have been easier if I had someone to help though. Couple of tings that I'm a bit concerned about.

1. Boost definitely sounds louder (i.e. whistling sound) and comes on quicker too, but definitely higher pitch? Is that aright?

2. The O2 sensor couldn't tighten up all the way, it's tight but there is about 2 more turns to go all the way... i.e. the o ring is loose. Badly machined threads from the JJR dump pipe? Is this a problem, as it is tight anyway? I don't think there's any leakage.

3. I only managed to put back the main heat shield with 2 bolts out of 5. Nothing to tighten it too. It's secure. But the rest of the pipe doesnt have any heat shield/wrapping? Should it?

4. Only managed to put on 5 of the 6 bolts back to turbo, one of them just refused to catch. Others are on pretty tightly, will there be leaks?

Cheers.

Nick.

Edited by webng

nick,

I wouldnt be to concerned about the higher pitch turbo spool sound as its now a stainless frontdump instead of the mild steel/steel one.

As for the 02 sensor aslong as its not leaking i cant see a problem at all.

Heat sheild shouldnt be a problem just check the hoses around the area for the first few weeks for any unecessry heat attack :cool:

which one of the 6 bolts couldnt you do up? im huessting if you looking from the top standing next to the front left wheel the 2nd one down from the top on the sie your standing on? its a prick! it wasnt tight when it was on adams and as you could tell by the gasket their were no leaks :yes:

heya chris,

yeah that's what i was hoping.

It was the the middle closest to me that wouldn't do up. The weld is in the way i reckon.

I added a thin layer of exhaust cement so hopefully that would help.

love the spooling up sound now though :D

i just automatically assume the worst as i'm pretty rubbish when it comes to things like that!

nick,

I wouldnt be to concerned about the higher pitch turbo spool sound as its now a stainless frontdump instead of the mild steel/steel one.

As for the 02 sensor aslong as its not leaking i cant see a problem at all.

Heat sheild shouldnt be a problem just check the hoses around the area for the first few weeks for any unecessry heat attack :(

which one of the 6 bolts couldnt you do up? im huessting if you looking from the top standing next to the front left wheel the 2nd one down from the top on the sie your standing on? its a prick! it wasnt tight when it was on adams and as you could tell by the gasket their were no leaks ;)

Yeah I noticed a higher-pitch spool sound when I changed my dump pipe; I also had the turbo hiflowed at the same time (gcg) and it sounds different - not worn turbo squeal now, but spool noise. The stainless dump pipe is a fair bit thinner than the big cast jobbie that was there from the factory, and I think it lets out a fair bit more noise.

To get all the bolts done up on my turbo (I had the luxury of having the turbo off to begin with) I fitted it off the car, and dropped the turbo and dump pipe in together and just did up the two bolts on the dump pipe -> cat.

The studs/nuts they put on the turbo were pretty crap and a couple siezed and one stripped, so I replaced that one with an original bolt anyway.

Edited by DaveB

Hey guys,

I have just fitted a 3" dump and hi flow cat on my Stagea. Its definately louder than before. I also stripped one turbo bolt, i got 5 bolts on no worries but i think i am getting a leak.

Is there any risk running the car with a leak at the turbo/dump pipe mating surface??

Also where can i get some new turbo bolts for a stock turbo??

Thanks

^^^ nick, get a short length of garden hose and put one end to your ear. move the other end around the engine bay where you think a leak may be and if it's there, you'll hear it :down:

Cool, i'll try that. Don't need to rev the engine or anything?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...