Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

17x9 +22 all round on 235/45R17 for R32 Gtst without any guard modifications.

will it scrape on full lock?

how far will it sit out of stock unmodified guards front and rear?

will i need any modifications on guards for them to fit?

car is mildly lowered so hopefully it won't cause any problems.

any pictures of similar spec wheels on a r32 would be good too.

any help appreciated. thanks!

Edited by jakez88

Hmm i reckon it's gonna be a bit of a stretch to fit them. (no pun intended)

Currently i have 17 x 8 + 15 up front with a 215/45/17 and 17 x 9 + 21 at the rear with a 235/45/17.

With the 17 x 9 + 21 on the front i would have 19mm less inner clearence and it would extend an extra 7mm.

Mine sits pretty nice at the front with -3 camber thanks to the R33 LCA's and theres no scrubbing even with the lock spacers. I reckon with a 7mm slip on spacer the front would sit perfect. So with the 17 x 9 +21 i think it would be a good fit (inner clearence may be a bit of an issue?) but i would think you would have to run a 214/45/17 up front for more clearence. The rears sit pretty nice with -1 degree of camber.

I have moded my guards a little, but that was only to fit the wheels when i first got them as the wheels came with a 50 profile tyre on the 17" rims.

I realise this post is a bit pointless without any pics, so i'll try to get around to taking some and might even put the rears on the front just for fun.

To give you a bit of an idea, compared to stock gts-t wheels, you wil have 14mm less inner clearance and the wheel will extend out an extra 50mm.

Edited by White GTS-T
  • 3 years later...

I run 17x9+30 all round (R33 GTR rims) 235/45/17 tyers

the front have a 5mm spacer on them and about -2 deg of camber no issues there.

the rears are a diffrent story I have -1deg of camber and had to have the rear gurads sit about 10-15mm above the top of the tire

as on heavy bumps it scrubed (rims sits out about 3mm or so from the gurad). once i rolled the guards i was fine to have the car at any hight.

If you're only running a 235 tyre, why not just get a rim to fit? Stretched tyres arent a great thing anyway..

But to be helpful, you will most likely need to roll/flare the rear guards.. On most r33's, and a friend who had a r32 with 20's (lol.), some guard work was needed. To be fair though, most were only just "legal" in terms of ride height.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
    • Um. No. Since Matt introduced the TIM it has become a lot easier to deal with the consequences of changing K for AFM and injector swaps. Then, tuning is a f**king doddle. No-one needs to know or care how many grams of air are flowing or any other bullshit. Need more fuel in a cell? Add more fuel. Need more timing in a cell. Add more timing. Need to adjust any of the other tables for warm up and so on? No harder than anything else. Sure - it's not an ECU system for starting from scratch on an arbitrary engine. But then.....it was never supposed to be, not recommended for, and almost never used that way. So.... On your engine, in particular, Nistune/Nissan OEM is about as sophisticated and difficult as banging 2 rocks together. Those ECUs are primitive and simple. There is nothing difficult there. I learnt Nistune from scratch, created new maps with extended axes, interpolated/extrapolated the original maps onto them and tuned my RB20 (basically the same ECU as your 26 ECU) all by myself, more than 20 years ago. And that was long before even TIM.
×
×
  • Create New...