Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Update - These wheels will fit an R33 GTST also.

Hi all, I have a set of 18" Nismo LMGT4's for sale.

Sizes are -

Front - 18x8.5J +30 offset (235/40/R18)

Rear - 18x9.5J +38 offset (265/35/R18)

These are standard size and offset for an R34 GTT.

They came of my old R34 GTT therefore they'll bolt straight onto another R34 and also fit an R33 and possibly S15. The front right has a minor scrape and the rear left had a bit of a dust up with a gutter. All wheels are still balanced perfectly though. 3 are missing the Nismo sticker thanks to some mag cleaner and a high pressure hose, not hard to replace though.

Tyres are Kuhmo K31's and are still roadworthy with a bit of tread left (Had to get a roadworthy to sell the car)

Asking price is $2000

Located in Melbourne.

DSCF0404_ADZ.JPG

gallery_2471_1202_240978.jpg

gallery_2471_1202_2153.jpg

gallery_2471_1202_322875.jpg

gallery_2471_1202_115462.jpg

gallery_2471_1202_45082.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249420-nismo-18-lmgt4s-for-sale/
Share on other sites

With regards to cosmetic damage if the rear left is a big problem the wheel can actualy be colour matched and respayed. It's pretty common with LMGT4's. You can speak to other forum users like Snowman or JAGR33 who have had LM's respryed to look as good as new.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
how much posted to Adelaide 5108? quite interested!

Hey mate, sorry for the delay. $150 sent to 5180 Adelaide. The rims themselves would be bubble wrapped then protectged with some thick card. The whole wheel is then shrink wrapped.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah. OK. I'll say the same thing I say to everyone. You do not have to use 100% throttle all the time.
    • Mainly being afraid of breaking something on something i've poured so much money into haha
    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
×
×
  • Create New...