Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Interestingly, I've found the GTX cards to be understated in almost all graphics/games benchmark tests. Either matching them with shitty hardware or AMD been shaking hands with people!

Recent testing in the office shows otherwise.

290 / 290X cards smash their NV equivalents in all of the benchmarks - the 290X we tested was definitely faster than a 780ti. As for the cooling issue, we used a Gelid aftermarket cooler that dropped temps in Uber mode by 20 degrees.

they might run hotter, but at a significantly lower price, they're a pretty compelling buy, especially for >1080 resolutions. This is from a place where we've all always been all Nvidia as well

Problem is you need the aftermarket cooler, you can OC the stock cooled reference TI like a mofo

Either way both great cards, but not a fan of ATI drivers really. Oh and seen some evidence that shows mantle to be worst looking in game for dat dere 10% or what ever it is in bf4 lol

Benchmarks aren't everything though, quantity over quality sometimes. An example being that BF4 is made for ATI cards, so similar specs and benchmarks will still favour the ATI in an FPS contest. Bitcoin mining being another. But not all rendering is equal, and drivers/support/control/OC are very good in the NV house. 290 seems like very good value all round.

Went & bought a netgear 4 bay Nas unit along with 3x WD 3TB red drives to off load all my animes/movies/TVshows to that instead.

One of my old 2TB WD green is dying (WD20EARS) & luckily I had most of the stuff on there backed up to a external drive before hand, seems like all the drives that have shown signs of dying were WD greens (2 so far), with the exception of 2 segates that were DOA... the oldest hard drive, an old samsung 7200rpm unit (that I use as my main game install drive besides the SSD boot drive) I salvaged from my old PC bulit is still working flawless.

Random people have being telling me leaving bit torrent running wears hard drives out faster, Is there any truth to that or complete BS? That dying WD green was one of the main drives that I had BT constantly running most of the time, coincidence?

Edited by Mayuri Krab

Yep seen enough failures of Greens on various RAIDS - the speculation is that the drive's powerdown energy saving features create havoc in the array. I'd be using regular drives.

If you're paranoid about drive wear, use a Red or a Black / Blue as a scratch disk for your torrents, then have them automatically move to a Green on completion.

My standalone Greens have been going for 3-5 years respectively, no complaints, make sure they get adequate airflow and aren't subject to vibration

planning on doing some shopping next month, am tossing up between EVGA GTX760 (because i like EVGA support + tools and ive only ever had nvidia cards) OR sapphire R9 280X (got some good wraps. would have preferred a toxic, but extra $200 for some cooling...)

nvidia has better base clock speeds but more pricey... i would prefer SLI over cross-fire mainly due to chipset availability in next 12 months.

http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Graphics_Cards/NVIDIA/51149-04G-P4-3768-KR

http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Graphics_Cards/AMD/51789-SA-R9280X-3GD5-OC

also thinking of picking up another SSD
http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Hard_Drives_&_SSDs/Solid_State_(SSD)/48725-CSSD-F128GBGS-BK

and desperately need new keyboard
http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Keyboards/Mechanical/50630-DK2108S-AUSALT

  On 17/02/2014 at 2:02 AM, Leroy Peterson said:

planning on doing some shopping next month, am tossing up between EVGA GTX760 (because i like EVGA support + tools and ive only ever had nvidia cards) OR sapphire R9 280X (got some good wraps. would have preferred a toxic, but extra $200 for some cooling...)

nvidia has better base clock speeds but more pricey... i would prefer SLI over cross-fire mainly due to chipset availability in next 12 months.

http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Graphics_Cards/NVIDIA/51149-04G-P4-3768-KR

http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Graphics_Cards/AMD/51789-SA-R9280X-3GD5-OC

also thinking of picking up another SSD

http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Hard_Drives_&_SSDs/Solid_State_(SSD)/48725-CSSD-F128GBGS-BK

and desperately need new keyboard

http://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Keyboards/Mechanical/50630-DK2108S-AUSALT

I'd be looking at a old 680, or 770 GTX (considering they are the same card, and better than the 760 if you gonna spend $400)

e.g http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1486&products_id=23601

also the samsung SSDs are awesome

I got the 280X (and after a few hours of trying to get drivers to work) seems pretty good with Rome 2. runs nice and cool.

Samsung and Corsair are same thing basically, ended up with Corsair 128gb and meh: its a hard drive.

  On 21/02/2014 at 5:05 AM, Leroy Peterson said:

I got the 280X (and after a few hours of trying to get drivers to work) seems pretty good with Rome 2. runs nice and cool.

Samsung and Corsair are same thing basically, ended up with Corsair 128gb and meh: its a hard drive.

ah yeah thats right forgot you were having driver problems lol

and yep thats it, my ssd isn't the best anymore but in terms of real world performance meh not going to notice any difference if I got the latest and greatest one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
×
×
  • Create New...