Jump to content
SAU Community

Lsd Type Question

teng
 Share

Recommended Posts

teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
Posted (edited)

Can anyone tell me the difference between the 3 types of LSD? I did read the Kaaz version 1, 1.5 & 2 way LSDs but it doesn't make sense which one is best for a GTS-T.

One way LSD

Specially suited for front wheel drive cars and 4WD car front axles.

Activates under acceleration, and acts as a true LSD when the throttle is

off. A great chance for improved lap times. A CUSCO original design.

1.5 way LSD

Activates under acceleration while the understeer is less than on the 2 way

LSD.Recommended for drivers having difficulty with 2 way LSD understeer and

one way LSD braking.

Two way LSD

Recommended on the rear axle for rear drive cars. Activates on both

acceleration and deceleration. Recommended for those who prefer hot driving

action and big angle drift.

I have a friend who has a supra JZA80 and one day when reversing, his left side rear fell into a ditch but his right side tyre is still on the ground. Despite one wheel is still movable, when he accelerated only the tyre which fell into the ditch spins. The right side doesn't even do anything. Does that means he doesn't have LSD or does it mean that all the power is shifted to the Left Tyre.

The above is an example only. The main question is which LSD can counter the problem above? 1, 1.5 or 2-way LSD? I do know more plates will cause more tightness and more traction though.

Edited by teng
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249477-lsd-type-question/
Share on other sites
NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

if the unloaded wheel is spinning wildly and the loaded wheel isn't moving he does NOT have an LSD...

All those diffs you mention will solve this problem on acceleration... however where they all differ is deceleration... 1 way does not lock at all on deceleration, 1.5 way partially locks and 2 way locks the same amount on accel as decel

teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
  • Author
Posted

NickR33 Thanks for the reply. When using search, alot of members here go for the 2-way full lock LSD. The prices for the 1.5 & 2 way aren't that much of a difference. For daily driving, i should just go for 1.5-way then. Too much understeer is a problem as well.

  • 2 weeks later...
teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
  • Author
Posted

One last question i forgot to mention. The stock LSD doesn't seem to have a lifespan. Very rare does the stock LSD needs replacing. How about the NISMO, KAAZ, CUSCO ones. Do they have the same lifespan as the stock ones. Just curious.

Bennett Mentor

Bennett

Posted
Posted

Very rare does the stock LSD need replacing? Are you joking? They always need replacing lol. Most of the stock LSDs out there are single spinners now. Any mechanical diff will outlast a stock viscous diff by many many years.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted
I have a friend who has a supra JZA80 and one day when reversing, his left side rear fell into a ditch but his right side tyre is still on the ground. Despite one wheel is still movable, when he accelerated only the tyre which fell into the ditch spins. The right side doesn't even do anything. Does that means he doesn't have LSD or does it mean that all the power is shifted to the Left Tyre.
if the unloaded wheel is spinning wildly and the loaded wheel isn't moving he does NOT have an LSD...

unless it's a Torsen!

MKIV Supras have a Torsen diff in them, which *IS* an LSD however it has the peculiar trait that if one wheel is in the air then the diff loses its LSD action. If your friend had put his foot on the brake a little while the unloaded tyre was free-spinning then the diff would have locked up and dragged him out.

Bennett Mentor

Bennett

Posted
Posted
unless it's a Torsen!

MKIV Supras have a Torsen diff in them, which *IS* an LSD however it has the peculiar trait that if one wheel is in the air then the diff loses its LSD action. If your friend had put his foot on the brake a little while the unloaded tyre was free-spinning then the diff would have locked up and dragged him out.

You mean like the ones in s15's? Handbrake on slightly gets them working properly with a wheel in the air.

Bennett Mentor

Bennett

Posted
Posted
The way i understand it is that if you have one wheel in the air a traditional LSD will still act as a single spinner as it needs some resistance to transfer torque to the other wheel.

Yeah the handbrake is what creates the resistance

  • 4 weeks later...
teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Very rare does the stock LSD need replacing? Are you joking? They always need replacing lol. Most of the stock LSDs out there are single spinners now. Any mechanical diff will outlast a stock viscous diff by many many years.

I'm beginning to understand this theory. Alot of times when coming out of a T-junction. Put my foot down, 1st gear and turning right, i can only hear spinning from my right side before going out to the main lane. Time to get a new LSD i guess. My LSD isn't Viscous nor mechanical though. When browsing Nengun, mechanical diff are for primera. Nismo has GT LSD and Cusco has RS Type.

Still don't know what to get, Nismo or Cusco. And the high Japanese Yen is spoiling my plans ><

Nismo GT LSD

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/gt-lsd-mechanical-lsd

Cusco RS LSD

http://www.nengun.com/cusco/lsd-type-rs

Note: The nismo one is cheaper though :)

Edited by teng

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Shoota_77
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • r32-25t
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By r32-25t · Posted

      At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...