Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone found a fix or attempted to fix the dodgy climate control display in the R32? Mine operates intermittently but much of the time parts of the display drop out or jumble. It seems to be worse with high cabin temperatures but can play up any time.

EDIT: Just thought I'd bring up this old thread of mine as I've got my climate control apart on the table right now and would like to know if anyone has fixed one successfully before and if so what did they find.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24948-r32-climate-control/
Share on other sites

I had this problem. Some buttons didn't want to work either. Pulled it open and cleaned all the contacts and switches and stuff with contact cleaner and cotton buds. Worked perfectly for about 2 weeks then the buttons went abit intermittent but she works most of the time. Display works fine though

mine has a tendancy to not come on when i start the car, btu give it 30seconds and it will appear and all the buttons / display works perfectly after that. this only happens occasionally.

my theory is a loss of charge overnight and a bad solder joint rendering it incapable of getting enough current initially when i start.

i dunno...

  • 5 months later...

my screen used to garble and drop out on the odd occasion but i think the whole lot shorted out. i turned the ac off and while the screen turned off what actually happened was the fan set itself to demist and i could not stop it. the next day when i turned the car on it set itself to demist again. what the??? after a couple of days it seemed to fix itself. i drove to work with the ac on - no problem. i turned the ac off before turning off the car - no problem. when i got back in the car 6 hours later the whole cabin smelt like burnt plastic. ive since pulled the fuse for the ac and the smell is gone but ive had no ac for a few weeks now. ive had a brief look behind the ac unit and all the wiring looks fine - no melted insulation. will try pulling the control unit apart and see if theres any burns in there. if there is how much would i expect to pay for a replacement? apparently the r33 unit is the same as the r32 unit. if this is true i will buy a 33 unit as its newer.

yeah mine also is a little tendancy to occationaly work then not work, often with a quick tap on the screen it works again......very stange, thou must be a loose connection somewhere. I'm going to have to pull the unit out and check the soldering. Also whats the deal with the button on it which when pressed shows some sort of Japanese writting and degrees? is that outside air temp or wot?

Bit off topic sorry but alot of the funtions also didn't work when i bought the car on the climate control but they guy gave me a pile of parts which he thought were the stock amps or something, a bit off lookin around i realised that one was the computer at the back of the car which seemed to fix both the HICAS and the climate control when i plugged it in.

The little Japanese writing says ambient i think, but you should be getting the temp as well. Perhaps the sensor is not working? Dont ask me where it is though, i dont know.

MM2death said:
Yeah mine has a few funny things with it.  First, a couple buttons don't always work.  Secondly, the ambient temp button used to display the actual ambient temp when i got the car, but now all i get when i press it is some Japanese writing.......  Any ideas?

Scott

I pulled the control unit apart to look for anything a bit sus like dry solder joints or dirty contacts. 3 screws and the face unclips. 2 more screws and the front circuit board pulls off.

It is connected to the rear circuit board by a row of pins that push through a socket in the front board. This connection might be where some of the problems are.

I took out the 2 screws at the back and pulled out the back CB (tight). It looked like it had been resoldered before so I tidied it up and put the thing back together. I ran it for a few minutes and it performed like new so far. Fingers crossed.

I pulled the control unit apart to look for anything a bit sus like dry solder joints or dirty contacts. 3 screws and the face unclips. 2 more screws and the front circuit board pulls off.

It is connected to the rear circuit board by a row of pins that push through a socket in the front board. This connection might be where some of the problems are.

I took out the 2 screws at the back and pulled out the back CB (tight). It looked like it had been resoldered before so I tidied it up and put the thing back together. I ran it for a few minutes and it performed like new so far. Fingers crossed.

Just pulled mine apart last night. everything looks fine so maybe mine is a prob with the wiring. will take it to an auto elec after ive payed rego. will let y'all know what the problem is so maybe can save the rest of you some money if you ever have the same prob. just hope it dont cost too much.

I think the AMB sensor is on the top of the dash, left hand side, very close to the window. Well its some sort of sensor

Ambient sensor is at the front of the car on the factory thermo fan.

As for not working.

Done a FMIC lately?, and removed it maybe.

  • 2 weeks later...

i found some useful stuff on the climate control on this article, i think it was around page 30- 33 (diagnostic mode for the climate control, very interesting) would probally help alot of u guys find the problem with urs.

www.vspec.btinternet.co.uk/Links_files/Diagnostics.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...