Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 climate control

BOoStEr

By BOoStEr,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

BOoStEr Collaborator

BOoStEr

Posted
Posted

Has anyone found a fix or attempted to fix the dodgy climate control display in the R32? Mine operates intermittently but much of the time parts of the display drop out or jumble. It seems to be worse with high cabin temperatures but can play up any time.

EDIT: Just thought I'd bring up this old thread of mine as I've got my climate control apart on the table right now and would like to know if anyone has fixed one successfully before and if so what did they find.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24948-r32-climate-control/
Share on other sites
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

I had this problem. Some buttons didn't want to work either. Pulled it open and cleaned all the contacts and switches and stuff with contact cleaner and cotton buds. Worked perfectly for about 2 weeks then the buttons went abit intermittent but she works most of the time. Display works fine though

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

mine has a tendancy to not come on when i start the car, btu give it 30seconds and it will appear and all the buttons / display works perfectly after that. this only happens occasionally.

my theory is a loss of charge overnight and a bad solder joint rendering it incapable of getting enough current initially when i start.

i dunno...

  • 5 months later...
sinisteR32 Enthusiast

sinisteR32

Posted
Posted

my screen used to garble and drop out on the odd occasion but i think the whole lot shorted out. i turned the ac off and while the screen turned off what actually happened was the fan set itself to demist and i could not stop it. the next day when i turned the car on it set itself to demist again. what the??? after a couple of days it seemed to fix itself. i drove to work with the ac on - no problem. i turned the ac off before turning off the car - no problem. when i got back in the car 6 hours later the whole cabin smelt like burnt plastic. ive since pulled the fuse for the ac and the smell is gone but ive had no ac for a few weeks now. ive had a brief look behind the ac unit and all the wiring looks fine - no melted insulation. will try pulling the control unit apart and see if theres any burns in there. if there is how much would i expect to pay for a replacement? apparently the r33 unit is the same as the r32 unit. if this is true i will buy a 33 unit as its newer.

BenA31 Experienced

BenA31

Posted
Posted

yeah mine also is a little tendancy to occationaly work then not work, often with a quick tap on the screen it works again......very stange, thou must be a loose connection somewhere. I'm going to have to pull the unit out and check the soldering. Also whats the deal with the button on it which when pressed shows some sort of Japanese writting and degrees? is that outside air temp or wot?

Bit off topic sorry but alot of the funtions also didn't work when i bought the car on the climate control but they guy gave me a pile of parts which he thought were the stock amps or something, a bit off lookin around i realised that one was the computer at the back of the car which seemed to fix both the HICAS and the climate control when i plugged it in.

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

The little Japanese writing says ambient i think, but you should be getting the temp as well. Perhaps the sensor is not working? Dont ask me where it is though, i dont know.

MM2death said:
Yeah mine has a few funny things with it.  First, a couple buttons don't always work.  Secondly, the ambient temp button used to display the actual ambient temp when i got the car, but now all i get when i press it is some Japanese writing.......  Any ideas?

Scott

BOoStEr Collaborator

BOoStEr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I pulled the control unit apart to look for anything a bit sus like dry solder joints or dirty contacts. 3 screws and the face unclips. 2 more screws and the front circuit board pulls off.

It is connected to the rear circuit board by a row of pins that push through a socket in the front board. This connection might be where some of the problems are.

I took out the 2 screws at the back and pulled out the back CB (tight). It looked like it had been resoldered before so I tidied it up and put the thing back together. I ran it for a few minutes and it performed like new so far. Fingers crossed.

sinisteR32 Enthusiast

sinisteR32

Posted
Posted
I pulled the control unit apart to look for anything a bit sus like dry solder joints or dirty contacts. 3 screws and the face unclips. 2 more screws and the front circuit board pulls off.

It is connected to the rear circuit board by a row of pins that push through a socket in the front board. This connection might be where some of the problems are.

I took out the 2 screws at the back and pulled out the back CB (tight). It looked like it had been resoldered before so I tidied it up and put the thing back together. I ran it for a few minutes and it performed like new so far. Fingers crossed.

Just pulled mine apart last night. everything looks fine so maybe mine is a prob with the wiring. will take it to an auto elec after ive payed rego. will let y'all know what the problem is so maybe can save the rest of you some money if you ever have the same prob. just hope it dont cost too much.

MegaGTS4 Proficient

MegaGTS4

Posted
Posted
I think the AMB sensor is on the top of the dash, left hand side, very close to the window. Well its some sort of sensor

Ambient sensor is at the front of the car on the factory thermo fan.

As for not working.

Done a FMIC lately?, and removed it maybe.

  • 2 weeks later...
BenA31 Experienced

BenA31

Posted
Posted

i found some useful stuff on the climate control on this article, i think it was around page 30- 33 (diagnostic mode for the climate control, very interesting) would probally help alot of u guys find the problem with urs.

www.vspec.btinternet.co.uk/Links_files/Diagnostics.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Bonnet clearance?
    • joshuaho96
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...