Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've tried to replace my Box filter on my R33 Turbo with a Pod filter and she won't start, I get a single crank nothing more. I put back the old filter & she purrrrrs. All I have done to the vehicle is add a JCAR Air & Fuel adjuster, large intercooler, boosted to 11lb & goes very good.

Any Ideas would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249487-r33-wont-start-with-pod-any-reason/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
are you bolting it into the engine bay and not putting it on the shiny cylinder under the back of the car?

Sorry guys,

I'm now confused when you say "putting it on the shiny cylinder" I am actually replacing or taking a way the original box at the front on the engine bay and hooking up or replacing it with the Pod filter by inserting the tube that connects to the box. Is this incorect.

Is their more to do !!!!!

yeh sound like you've missed the afm. Otherwise i guess he would have said something about an adapter for AFM to Pod

that thing connected to your airbox, the clyinder type thing with the squareish box on top with wires coming out of it measures the airflow into your engine. Without this your car thinks it is getting no air and will not run

yeh sound like you've missed the afm. Otherwise i guess he would have said something about an adapter for AFM to Pod

that thing connected to your airbox, the clyinder type thing with the squareish box on top with wires coming out of it measures the airflow into your engine. Without this your car thinks it is getting no air and will not run

Everyone who helped,

I had another look & I NOW understand what this Cylinder/adapter thing is required to connect the POD filter (see pic). I need to remove the bottom part of my plastic box which has 4 bolts plus the wires and attach an adapter to the AFM for the POD to work. (would this be correct).

What I was doing is taking away the whole box + the wires and attaching the POD with no wires and no AFM.

Nothing easy

post-12266-1231061120_thumb.jpg

that's correct, you need to have the AFM connected with the pod on the end of it where it bolts onto the stock airbox. the car will not start without the AFM connected on the stock computer.

Cheers problem solved, I'm only learning.

are you bolting it into the engine bay and not putting it on the shiny cylinder under the back of the car?
Sorry guys,

I'm now confused when you say "putting it on the shiny cylinder" I am actually replacing or taking a way the original box at the front on the engine bay and hooking up or replacing it with the Pod filter by inserting the tube that connects to the box. Is this incorect.

Is their more to do !!!!!

lol i laughed

but ye you always need your afm plugged to the car. unless you run an ECU that dosnt require one.

happy modding :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...