Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have worked it out!!!

this is NOT a DIY task. I spoke to clarion USA this morning and grabbed a service manual for a PN-2615 for note taking and comparision to a 2413E /2414E (one is the bose version one is the plain one.)

bear in mind I have BOTH service manuals here to compare with.

two major things differ. Main Processor ( this sets the FM scaling I'm lead to believe) and Radio front end.

for the 2413E the radio front end is setup in this fashion

AM - 522-1620 Khz - 9Khz steps

FM 76.0-90.0 Mhz 100Khz steps

for the 2615E its setup this way:

AM -520-1710Khz 10 Khz steps

FM 87.6-107.9 Mhz 200Khz steps

the processor controls tuning voltage and PLL functions.

externally across the PN-2413E and the PN-2615E they have the same chassis apart from the CD changer. the 2615E changer pinout is 180 deg OUT of sequence with the changer used with the 2413E. that means a full board swap is out of the question.

that leaves a FULL unit swap in which case those WITHOUT the OE Navi option can do it. processor on the USDM unit will run everything. the KEY difference between your radio and the NAVI version is the 8 PIN AUX IN . Cars with out Navi do not use this option. so to fix yours you need a PN-2615E or the COMPLETE ASSEMBLY off ebay.

for those WITH OE navi the process differs. it will require a FM Front END swap and a Processor swap.

currently I'm looking at the USDM items as this is what I have to work with. once Clarion Oz reopens I'm going to look at LOCAL units for a LOCAL processor so you get the correct FM/AM bands

Locally the RADIO front end is setup in this fashion:

FM 87.7-107.9 50Khz steps*

AM-522-1629 9Khz steps

*(you see it as 100Khz. the audio is set up as 30hz-15Khz with the stereo carrier at 19khz. the rest is a guard band)

so if anyone knows where I can find a 350z radio or 2004 Pathfinder radio then I'm ALL ears. and I'm not fussed on the audio side of it (IE bose or not.) as I need the model number of these units so I can compare notes. ideally I would like a chassis to compare against the PN-2413E I have here.

balls in your court now :O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249573-fm-radio-recalibration/
Share on other sites

Looks like more mods to do!

My wife's been complaining how 'fuzzy' the radio is... having 101.1 FM & 101.9 Fox stations converted on 81.1 & 81.9 positions, combined with 91.5 Vega in the middle at 81.5 position, 3 stations so closely together is not very good. Vega comes out best (91.5 Mhz on 81.5 position), with the other 2 rather fuzzy or 'ghosting' effect...

Rianto,

yep.

These things will have to be on an exchange basis. it is NOT something I can do on a trip out of town as I NEED my workbench to do them. (sorry victor :domokun: )

for those with 70th aniv. cars these run a DIFFERENT radio ( they run a PN-2615E) the ones I mod currently are PN 2413E.

if someone has a PN-2615 they have pulled out - I'm all ears.

later cars (IE 2004.5 + ) no rework yet. I cannot find a unit that will keep the MD working.

  • 1 month later...

processor swapped out - 100pin ASIC = absolute PAIN IN THE ARSE to remove. putting it back on - easy. no tuner yet (still waiting) so I can't fire the unit up without it having a heart attack.

  • 3 months later...

update:

still trialing the 2413/14 twins.

The 2004 spec radio (PN2613) has been sussed out. I found a processor that will run with it. going to take a bit of fiddling but its definitely doable!!

experiments start once I get the processor here.

need to start on the 2005 version properly now. I'm going nutty looking at 4 schematics/ 2 chassis's at the same time.

Jon Chan,

expect a call on the white car in about a week. yours was one chassis I've modded, no stacker for it -YET.

I did a non bose one first up. the bose version gets donethis week in the same fashion as the other. I'll test mule it for a bit before I go further. short version - it works but needs tweaking so that the whole sytem works as its meant to. currently I run the non bose one without the stacker attached.( I keep selling the stacker thats meant for it!)

only issue with you lot is going to be cost. I'm doing these simply because I was told I couldn't. for a fully reworked (radio and CD) its NOT going to be cheap.

radio only will be a LOT more than the cost of an expander but it will give a fraction of the issues.

put plainly I spend the best part of 6 months on this and I'm not letting it go for nix.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
    • 100% is gyprock, I agree. Slip of the keyboard. Haha! I left my indicator bulbs out to save a bit of weight.
×
×
  • Create New...