Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,, i heard that changing your afm from the stock rb25det to the afm of the z32 may increase your horsepower, is that true? if any of you guys tried it i would love to hear the results cause i have one and would like to hear results b4 i install it also would they plug right in or would i have to re-wire the afm to fit into the rb's loom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24958-z-32-afm/
Share on other sites

point taken,, but tell me if i'm wrong, 1:- the field fuel controller reads the signals coming from the afm and then alters it a bit and sends it to the ecu so it ( the ecu) will adjust fuel accordingly,, on the controller i could have the car run rich or lean to my desire,, am i to assume the power fc does the same thing where the signal from the afm is concerned?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24958-z-32-afm/#findComment-532443
Share on other sites

It is a waste of time.

The Z32 is the same size as the AFM you already have, so it is not going to increase power. It will read higher airflows though.

Putting a 300Kmh speedometer in your car is not going to make your car go any faster.

Fitting a flowmeter that can read higher airspeeds through the same sized hole is not going to increase airflow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24958-z-32-afm/#findComment-534313
Share on other sites

You have to find the power by other means, just changing the airflow meter and management to suit a different AFM is going to do nothing for you.

The only time fitting a Z32 is going to help is if your engine is already making more power, and the stock AFM has reached the maximum flow it can measure.

This will be when you are making about 220 rear wheel Kw or more. A Z32 will allow about 260 rear wheel Kw before you are in trouble again. A Q45 airflow meter is good up to about 300 rear wheel Kw.

Please try to understand the difference between making power, and the parts needed to support that power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24958-z-32-afm/#findComment-534879
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Warpspeed

...This will be when you are making about 220 rear wheel Kw or more. A Z32 will allow about 260 rear wheel Kw before you are in trouble again. A Q45 airflow meter is good up to about 300 rear wheel Kw....

i have a problem with this statement. im making about 190rwkw and im maxing my afm out - according to my powerfc.

is this a dodgy tune, or is that 220rwkw in victorian speak :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24958-z-32-afm/#findComment-535544
Share on other sites

point taken again,, thanx,,warpspeed it seems as though you have some experience in this field, so maybe you can share some insight, i would like to know what sort of power i might acieve on my engine the mods that i am about to install 1- blitz dsbc 2 field fuel controller, 3 - 3" exhaust (already installed with no cat) cold air intake 4- bosch adjustable fuel pressure regulator. i know in stock form the rb25 is about 250hp,, how much should i expect with these mods, all the parts are here already and its waiting on me to install them, do you think i might reach the 300 mark anyone?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24958-z-32-afm/#findComment-535575
Share on other sites

geraldjohn, from what i read your "power mods" consist of

- boost controller

- fuel controller

- exhaust (no cat ... tisk tisk!!!)

- CAI

depends how much boost you want to run, but i think you'd be expecting about ~175rwkw at around 1bar.

im at 190rwkw with a light powerfc tune, and i havent touched fuel pump or injectors...this is stage 2 :) i have powerfc, super intake, front mount, exhaust and avcr @ 1bar boost - hiflow cat too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24958-z-32-afm/#findComment-535585
Share on other sites

well, in NSW, Australia no catalytic convertor would constitute a fine of around $10,000.00AUD - if the EPA catches you.

its also highly toxic for the environment. so thank-you for contributing to worlds pollution problems and ensuring my grandchildren have a lovely environment to live in :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24958-z-32-afm/#findComment-535909
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...