Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I'm driving while boosting and decide to reduce throttle slightly (while staying on boost), the car will shudder or chatter. To avoid this, I must fully release throttle then reapply at a lower level.

My reasoning for this issue:

I have a HKS SSQV, HKS 2530 Kai and Nismo super copper mix single. Any reduction of the throttle while boosting increases vacuum causing the post-compressor intake charge to be vented to the atmosphere. The unsprung friction plate transfers all of that angry compression braking to the drive train causing the car to shudder the same way the SSQV sounds, like a the sphincter of the universe gobble. I know you all dont like the SSQV because its all ricer but the wife loves it and its the thing to do here in Japan.

Anyone else heard of this before?

Edited by M E S O G L E A

What causes this, the dual stage valve system in the SSQV?

If I reinstall an OEM GTST/GTR BOV, what about the bleed hole on the flange? I was thinking of trying the Dodge BOV mod but it seems like it will act the same as an SSQV.

Anyone else have similar issues using the SSQV?

So I leave the bleed hole an let boost escape? I am running a PFC that is tuned for the atmo SSQV.

I have a friend that has an SSQV and his doesnt act like mine and does not have the solid clutch plate.

Why does everyone hate the SSQV and other aftermarket BOV's?

Well, I installed the OEM BOV and it idles like crap.

I tried the Dodge mod and still idles like crap.

I cover the outlet with my hand and it idles fine

I put the SSQV on and it idles fine.

What makes you so sure its the SSQV and not the solid clutch?

Well thanks.

I try the OEM one at a later date, need to order the GTR BOV and some suspension bolts today.

If it's tuned for atmo and revert to recirc, will it need to be tuned again?

I apologize for being stubborn.

I installed a new OEM GTR BOV today. The car no longer shudders like the gobbling SSQV. It does, however, cut-out "softly" if I release the throttle partially on boost and the idle is not perfectly happy. I attribute this to a small recirc leak because I used some ill fitting plumbing coupler until I get the proper hose.

Have you any idea how ridiculously hard it is to find automotive hose in Japan? Auto part stores might have a small section for performance with no universal hoses and an isle or 3 dedicated to air freshers, mirrors and useless Hello Kitty accessories.

Im sure next time you will take the gurus advice before you fire at them then :)

These guys know what they are on about, so when you ask a question, you get a reply, 9.9 times out of 10 it will be correct.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...