Jump to content
SAU Community

I'm After 350rwhp

Ninja_09

By Ninja_09,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ninja_09 Apprentice

Ninja_09

Posted
Posted

hey guys !!!!

got a hi-flowed turbo and all supporting mods on my r33 s-II (coil packs, fmic,z32 afm, pod etc.).

the turbo can't flow enough air at high rpm so it drops from 18psi to 15psi and making only 301rwhp.

any ideas/ suggestions on what my options are to get to 350hp mark ?????

Will I have to get a new turbo altogether or are there any other options???

If new bigger turbo is the only answer, what turbo? are there any bolt on solutions?

here's the dyno graph ..

post-58092-1229821581_thumb.jpg

Cheers !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249701-im-after-350rwhp/
Share on other sites
W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted

How big is the front, if the front is big enough maybe its just the rear housing that is not flowing enough, in that case the simple option is a vg30 rear housing which is .8 not .6 like and rb25 turbo, i have a high flow with one, only have fmic, k&n panel filter, 3" exhaust, hi flow cat and one piece split dump and it makes 299 rwhp, once i put in bigger injectors, z32, fule pump and management i will be maxing it out at around 350 rwhp.

My dyno graph is much the same as yours but i am making the same power as you at the same rpm but with less boost, my 299hp was at 6000rpm @ 14psi.

post-27276-1229835901_thumb.jpg

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

what wastegate actuator are you using? if you have a rb25 one then they are weak as piss and can cause this.

get a upgraded wastegate actuator with a 15psi spring and then re-tune it to 20psi and you should get close to the power your after

Ninja_09 Apprentice

Ninja_09

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  W0rp3D said:
How big is the front, if the front is big enough maybe its just the rear housing that is not flowing enough, in that case the simple option is a vg30 rear housing which is .8 not .6 like and rb25 turbo, i have a high flow with one, only have fmic, k&n panel filter, 3" exhaust, hi flow cat and one piece split dump and it makes 299 rwhp, once i put in bigger injectors, z32, fule pump and management i will be maxing it out at around 350 rwhp.

My dyno graph is much the same as yours but i am making the same power as you at the same rpm but with less boost, my 299hp was at 6000rpm @ 14psi.

post-27276-1229835901_thumb.jpg

  Guilt-Toy said:
what wastegate actuator are you using? if you have a rb25 one then they are weak as piss and can cause this.

get a upgraded wastegate actuator with a 15psi spring and then re-tune it to 20psi and you should get close to the power your after

Thanks for the replies guys, I'll check with the guy who hi-flod the turbo, what housing .6 or .8 and what wastegate actuator were used. At this stageall I know is the wastegate is internal...

Ninja_09 Apprentice

Ninja_09

Posted
  • Author
Posted

checked with the workshop and it was the stock rb25 wastegate actuator used (3 psi or something). will change this to a better one in Jan... he said this will be a 13.8psi... will this do the trick??? I guess only one way to find out !!!

  • 3 weeks later...
Radioham Explorer

Radioham

Posted
Posted
  Ninja_09 said:
checked with the workshop and it was the stock rb25 wastegate actuator used (3 psi or something). will change this to a better one in Jan... he said this will be a 13.8psi... will this do the trick??? I guess only one way to find out !!!

Just wondering if setting the higher boost duty circle will help holding the boost?? :D

Pattygtst Veteran

Pattygtst

Posted
Posted
  Ninja_09 said:
checked with the workshop and it was the stock rb25 wastegate actuator used (3 psi or something). will change this to a better one in Jan... he said this will be a 13.8psi... will this do the trick??? I guess only one way to find out !!!

Can anyone confirm the size of the stock wastegate actuator? I thought it was 7psi?? Cause i think they did the same with my gt3076r upgrade. Its a lag fest. I got a 18psi spring going on next tuesday.

In your case there is no way you will make 350rwhp with a high flow. I bet Andrew told you that you wouldnt see those figures too. Thats why i went the gt3076r and not a highflow.

However i reckon you might get 325rwhp at most on his dyno with a 1 bar actuator. The boost will come on heaps early and should hold all the way.

HackerX Community Regular

HackerX

Posted
Posted
  Pattygtst said:
Can anyone confirm the size of the stock wastegate actuator? I thought it was 7psi??

I was under the impression it was 5psi.

5psi to get the low boost setting and 7psi for the highboost setting (in the stock boost controller).

sly32 Proficient

sly32

Posted
Posted

um, rb25 actuators are 7psi, rb20 actuators are 10psi, HKS actuators are adjustable but from memory the minimum is 14psi? correct me if im wrong,

thats why people say using the rb20 actuator on the 25 turbo ends up working better,

HKS actuators cost mmm well with our crap exchange rate now probably $200, was $130 delivered when i checked last before the crap dollar

Ninja_09 Apprentice

Ninja_09

Posted
  • Author
Posted
  Pattygtst said:
Can anyone confirm the size of the stock wastegate actuator? I thought it was 7psi?? Cause i think they did the same with my gt3076r upgrade. Its a lag fest. I got a 18psi spring going on next tuesday.

In your case there is no way you will make 350rwhp with a high flow. I bet Andrew told you that you wouldnt see those figures too. Thats why i went the gt3076r and not a highflow.

However i reckon you might get 325rwhp at most on his dyno with a 1 bar actuator. The boost will come on heaps early and should hold all the way.

I kinda realised that I'm not gonna get 350hp with this turbo, but if I can run 17-18psi and hold through out the rev range I'll be more than happy (with what ever the rwhp number I get)

I don't wanna pay for whole new turbo setup just for few hp

Is it straight forward to change the actuator to a 1 bar actuator? which brand is recomended??? are there 18 psi actuators out there?

and yeah !!! Andrew told me that 350 is not gonna happen with this turbo. :D

teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just get the HKS actuator. My stock actuator got busted, stuck at 0.4bar all the time. Got the adjustable and wind it up til 0.73bar which was max for the stock turbo (using stock ecu). Winding it up anymore would cause like hitting a wall kinda feeling. lol

BTW the HKS acutator can go over 1 bar easily.

post-48477-1232715076_thumb.jpg

Edited by teng
Pattygtst Veteran

Pattygtst

Posted
Posted
  Ninja_09 said:
I kinda realised that I'm not gonna get 350hp with this turbo, but if I can run 17-18psi and hold through out the rev range I'll be more than happy (with what ever the rwhp number I get)

I don't wanna pay for whole new turbo setup just for few hp

Is it straight forward to change the actuator to a 1 bar actuator? which brand is recomended??? are there 18 psi actuators out there?

and yeah !!! Andrew told me that 350 is not gonna happen with this turbo. :P

Well if you hadnt noticed your thread says im after 350rwhp. Your asking the wrong questions.

Get a suitable turbo first!

shotter Rising Star

shotter

Posted
Posted

Do people know how much you can get out of a high flowed r33 turbo? Mines a RB25 and im making 290Hp at 12psi. But they guy that tunes it said he wound the boost up too 20psi but only got about 10 more Hp. Does this sound right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • GTSBoy
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
    • Kinkstaah
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I just used a can that's easy to empty after every session and pour it back into the fill hole. Takes about 40 seconds when you have 40 minutes between runs :p I don't see how changing any catch can stuff will reduce pressure if the system is sealed. And if it's vented - Does it matter where it's vented with regards to overall pressure?
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      Welp, too late already committed to the cam cover breathers to be welded on. I did think about adding a catch can in line with the drivers side sump breather as a phase 2 along with a drain to the sump on the original catch can but with an inline ball valve so I can have it closed if needed.    Likely a single breather would have been enough but I think I’m overcompensating to hopefully not have to empty my catch can and clean up oil over flow every session.    out of curiosity has anyone actually measured crank case pressure before and after various mods? I’m considering adding a sensor for science 
    • Duncan
      Speedtek 800hp Close Ratio Gearset

      By Duncan · Posted

      Is it a dog or synchro box? I guess either way, if it is new and crunching in one gear only, it has to come out and go back to the shop to check/measure as there is either an assembly or manufacturing issue
×
×
  • Create New...