A Little Help From The Tech Heads Please?

[ellie]

Hey guys, I was hoping some of the audio tech heads could help me with some questions on sound system set up in my R32? Now keeping in mind that the emphasis for me is that my car remain a good drivers car, so, light wieght but still delivers quality sound. And I mean quality, not quantity. Dosen't have to blow my cloths off but I like a lot of R&B and dance music which needs some bass to sound good

1. I have the latest response 4x100wrms amp and front splits. What would be best to put in the rear?

2. Can I have the front 2 channels on stereo going to my splits and the rear channels bridged on low pass for a sub? or if you bridge one do you have to bridge the other?

3. Would 2x6.5" woofers deliver reasonable bass any where near, say, a 10" sub? <- I ask because I can fit these in the parcel shelf so i don't have to make a heavy boot space reducing sub enclosure (a trade off if you will). correct this logic if I'm wrong but the bass comes from the amount of air being moved, so, 2x6.5 (with decent excursion) should equal a 12"?

Any help and advice would be most appreciated

Edited December 21, 2008 by ellie

[Kinks]

Rear fill - 6 or 6.5" woofers, whatever will fit the standard mounts.

You don't have to bridge the front channels if you bridge the rears, I would run your front splits off the front outputs and bridge a sub across the rear outputs. 6.5" woofers will not come close to a dedicated sub, the size of the woofer is a general indication of how deep it can play. 2 x 6.5" woofers will only be a bit louder than 1 x 6.5" woofer, it won't play deeper bass.

I've just completed my stereo and have the same priority as you - it's a driver's car and I didn't want to give up my boot space to put a big heavy sub box in. I used loftyfang's custom fibreglass sub enclosure, here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...Bo-t204315.html - see if he has any left. I mated it up with a Peerless 822008 subwoofer, it sounds phenomenal. And I've still got virtually all of my boot space left. I'm using a 6 channel amp so I went from speakers powered via head unit to speakers powered by amp (more volume and a touch more bass) then threw the sub in and it was a huge leap forward. With lofty's sub enclosure you'll need to choose your woofer carefully, look at the speaker's parameters. Use a sub with the lowest Vas (equivalent volume) you can find. Like I said the 822008 simulates perfectly and sounds amazing.

[Jack88]

ok you can put what ever you like in the rear.its really only for rear fill,you wont hear a whole lot from them anyway. thos splits and amp combo you have should sound pritty nice.

dont bother trying to run 6.5"s as sub replacement, they will fail miserably in comparasen to even a cheap 10" woofer. cone area is not everything, alot of other parameters come into it such as xmax etc. simply put 6.5" woofers are just not designed to do what your asking of them. there are a few around which are such as some from adire audio extremis 6.5" drivers but good luck getting a hold of some as there distributor in victoria has gone MIA.

you are far better off getting a cheap 10" or 12" sub in an enclosure and using quick connect aderson plugs so you can pull the box out as you need.

and yes you can bridge channels 3 and 4 to run a sub and still run the channels 1 and 2 in stereo. how many pre outs does your headunit have too?

EDIT: haha bet me to it kinks lol.

Jack

Edited December 21, 2008 by Jack88

[ellie]

Thanks guys great information.

OK, So, 6.5s as a substitute for a sub is not going to measure up. I had a feeling this would be so but I was willing to hope and ask the question

At 380wrms bridge rating should be much more than adaquate power for a single sub setup, I was just trying to get out of setting it up.

Kinks - I have an R32 so that box is no good for me. But thanks anyway. I was trying to avoid a sub enclosure out of laziness because my suspension has been corner balanced and the weight of the car is biased towards the front (obviously) but also the right hand side of my car (especially with me in it). So with a battery relocation and sub enclosure to be encorperated while trying to get a good weight distribution proves a little bit harder But in saying that, probably a good opertunity!

Jack88 - My head unit has 3 preouts (one being for the sub with bass control) so the plan is to put the front preout at stereo to the splits and the sub control to the bridged rear channels for the sub on low pass?

Does that sound right guys?

[Jack88]

yea 380 wrms is plenty to run a decent sub.

i dont think you have much to be worried about, i mean a decent sub in an enclosure will only weigh a few KG. the last one of the installs i did in a 32 GTR was designing and building a box to fit inbetween the strut towers and sit flush with the boot seal. not a problem and managed to keep the strut brace installed too. this was with a middle of the range RF sub and the box and sub together only weighed about 6 - 10 kg max.

spot on about the pre outs there! except there really isnt a use for a LP filter on the sub channel as your amp should have one built in but its up to you. if you want to have easier controll over the crossover set the one on the amp to flat out and use the one thats built into your head unit.

where abouts are you located?

Jack

[ellie]

Thanks guys! Great help, i really appreciate it

[ron]

hi, you are correct regards to the amount of air moves mean louder or greater in mass volume.

but the most important thing about sub woofers are; SUB SONIC FREQUENCY RESPONSE

what this mean? .... sub woofers can and will respond to low frequency input (bass, doof doof)

where as full range woofers wont. often die out at a mere 120-150Hz.

so no matter how much power you feed your average woofer, you just wont get that deep bass.

hope this helps

[ellie]

Yes, it does! I see looking at the specs that a 6.5 can only handle a narrow range like you said but the subs can handle anywhere from 0 - 500Hz.

Super, thanks for all the help guys