Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for sale rb30e series 1 block with all internals minus everything on outside $75 perfect for 25/30 conversion

for sale rb30et head $50

pics up soon just want it all gone

or will swap for parts of interest let me know what you have got

Edited by Turbo 33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249856-rb30/
Share on other sites

where abouts in brisbane are you?

also do u know details of the block? i.e k's, what car it came form, when was the head removed etc

pm sent

southside

i will find out k's

came from vl

head was removed a little over 6 months ago a mate was going to do a turbo conversion to it but never got around to it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249856-rb30/#findComment-4331652
Share on other sites

will swap for r33 gtst parts like steering shroud,

the plastic bits the go from roof to floor in the middle of the car

all boot trim

parcel shelf

drivers side door trim and passenger side

handbrake rubber thing gearstick boot gear stick plastic

pretty much any interior parts let me know what you have and we can work something out

clear side indicators or smoked ones

turbo timer

Edited by Turbo 33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249856-rb30/#findComment-4331730
Share on other sites

bump want it gone

will swap for r33 gtst parts like steering shroud,

the plastic bits the go from roof to floor in the middle of the car

all boot trim

parcel shelf

drivers side door trim and passenger side

handbrake rubber thing gearstick boot gear stick plastic

pretty much any interior parts let me know what you have and we can work something out

clear side indicators or smoked ones

turbo timer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249856-rb30/#findComment-4336948
Share on other sites

ahhh boo mate, thought you were going to do something cool with it.

shane it was the one i had lying around - gave it to josh for free.

no i still have that this is one i brought off a mate about 2-3 months before you gave me that one this one is a series one block

Edited by Turbo 33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249856-rb30/#findComment-4344760
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This isn't for lotsa powers, and time and effort isn't even a thing I'm concerned about The whole reason is "Just because fun", and "Just because fun" is what I do And whilst there are other kits, with better and more modern turbos (Rev9 use the same Kraken manifold I believe), where in Sydney can I do a drive in drive out with the after sales support that MX5 Mania give My Turbo 86 made around 200kwatw on a AVO turbo kit, and was over 100kg heavier than the MX5, but it was a blast to drive around the streets, until I crashed it.....DOOH, so somewhere around 200 ish level and some whooshy noises and I'll be happy driving to work, the shops, or heading into the country with Jackie for Devonshire tea So, thanks Dose for your info, it sounds like a 0.64 will be fine for what I'm after👍 The only real racing I do nowadays is to the toilet  
    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
×
×
  • Create New...