Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just thought I'd post this here as well. The original thread is here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4331234

Basically, I've done a bit of work to the car lately, including an alarm install and turbo replacement & tune. After finally getting it back on the road, I have a problem where after driving for a short while the whole ignition circuit just drops out, meaning I lose indicators, dash guages (speedo/taco), combination meter, etc. etc. but the _engine keeps running_ (?!)

Battery-powered stuff like the lights, brake lights, and the accessories like the radio keep going too.

After parking the car with ignition off for maybe 10 minutes it resets.

Damn, damn, DAMN annoying... I have spent so long wiring this car I can't describe... I've been pulling the interior apart more times than I care to count, most recently last night, when I was up tracing a short in the parking light circuit until 3am so that I could drive to work today (I have barely been able to drive the car on its new tune, and it has new turbo and over 180rwkw... :banana: )

So if anyone has any clues please post them up here or in the original thread... or feel free to PM...

Hi all,

Just thought I'd post this here as well. The original thread is here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4331234

Basically, I've done a bit of work to the car lately, including an alarm install and turbo replacement & tune. After finally getting it back on the road, I have a problem where after driving for a short while the whole ignition circuit just drops out, meaning I lose indicators, dash guages (speedo/taco), combination meter, etc. etc. but the _engine keeps running_ (?!)

Battery-powered stuff like the lights, brake lights, and the accessories like the radio keep going too.

After parking the car with ignition off for maybe 10 minutes it resets.

Damn, damn, DAMN annoying... I have spent so long wiring this car I can't describe... I've been pulling the interior apart more times than I care to count, most recently last night, when I was up tracing a short in the parking light circuit until 3am so that I could drive to work today (I have barely been able to drive the car on its new tune, and it has new turbo and over 180rwkw... :banana: )

So if anyone has any clues please post them up here or in the original thread... or feel free to PM...

sounds weird dave but id be looking at the imobiliser.i know it keeps running but my whole ign is thu my alarm and dash and everything is dead untill activated.just a stab in the dark bud .regards mike

Hi all,

Just thought I'd post this here as well. The original thread is here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4331234

Basically, I've done a bit of work to the car lately, including an alarm install and turbo replacement & tune. After finally getting it back on the road, I have a problem where after driving for a short while the whole ignition circuit just drops out, meaning I lose indicators, dash guages (speedo/taco), combination meter, etc. etc. but the _engine keeps running_ (?!)

Battery-powered stuff like the lights, brake lights, and the accessories like the radio keep going too.

After parking the car with ignition off for maybe 10 minutes it resets.

Damn, damn, DAMN annoying... I have spent so long wiring this car I can't describe... I've been pulling the interior apart more times than I care to count, most recently last night, when I was up tracing a short in the parking light circuit until 3am so that I could drive to work today (I have barely been able to drive the car on its new tune, and it has new turbo and over 180rwkw... :banana: )

So if anyone has any clues please post them up here or in the original thread... or feel free to PM...

Everything points to something that you have done recently but the symptoms are similar to what just happened to our Toyota Corona: Car would start and run but no ignition lights, no indicators horn or dash lights. After checking all the fuses took it to a sparky who replaced the ignition switch. They are quite expensive so if you could borrow one you could eliminate that possibility.

Thanks Mike. Had that thing out so many times now... been racking my brains but I can't think of where I connected it to the ignition. For the ignition connection I used accessories, so that I only have to turn accessories on to stop it re-arming.

Everything points to something that you have done recently but the symptoms are similar to what just happened to our Toyota Corona: Car would start and run but no ignition lights, no indicators horn or dash lights. After checking all the fuses took it to a sparky who replaced the ignition switch. They are quite expensive so if you could borrow one you could eliminate that possibility.

OH. That sucks... however the "key-in" switch in my ignition barrel is busted (doesn't work), and I have a spare ignition barrel with working key-in switch, perhaps I should change that. I did change ignition barrels with this alarm install because I was installing the alarm as a result of the car being broken into, and they had broken the ignition barrel. Just means I will have to change door locks too, but what the heck if it fixes it.

Well, I changed the ignition barrel again tonight, but it is still doing it bad. Seems to happen after the engine is well and truly warmed up, but I dunno... can't really pin it down. It's like the complete ignition circuit is off. Lights go out when I open the drivers door and everything.

Think, HOPE I found the problem - main ignition connection on the back of the fuseblock that I must have forgotten to plug in properly the last time I had it out. Last time it cut out I fiddled with it and the ignition came good; so re-plugged properly and hope that's fixed it. Hasn't happened yet but only had a couple of short drives.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's f**ked up. I'd guess it's more likely that you have an entire S13 subframe in there. Does it still have HICAS mounting points? Seeing as it is quite possible that yours is the only such converted car in the world, you'll probably struggle to find someone who can tell you from direct experience. 'Twere I you, I'd be looking for 4 stud Skyline rear brakes and convert back. At a minimum. Preferably go find all the stuff you need to put it back to 5 stud (assuming you're happy to change wheels) and upgrade to some decent brakes. You don't even need much stock stuff. Don't need calipers or rotors, as you can go fully aftermarket. Just needs hubs and the other bits and bobs that are different to what you have now.
    • The engine has nothing to do with it. The physical space behind the headlight is the limiting factor. And the height. The height of the NS70 is the same as stock. So the clamp bar across the top goes on nice. The battery tray is big enough for it to sit on. The X is for extra capacity - it has even more lead in it than the non-X NS70. Heavy f**ker. But it's not a track car, so I will suffer a couple of extra kg. In the case of the R34, maybe the physical space there is not as deep (forward-backward, not up down). Hence why they say the 60 is the biggest. But I would never trust a catalogue to tell me what will fit. I have the car. I have the existing battery. I have the tape measure. I have the dimensions of all the available batteries. I find the biggest box that will go in. (With the right terminals in the right places, of course).  
    • Hello! I have been having a hard time finding the answer to this question… I have a R32 GTS-T Sedan than has been 4 lug swapped using S13 hubs, rotors, and brakes. The front has also been converted to S13 suspension.    When the swap was completed, the handbrake cables were never hooked up, as the S13 rear calipers are the “handbrake”, and not the typical drum on rotor that the R chassis are. Does anyone know handbrake cables that will work for this conversion? I’d like to not use a hydraulic handbrake and stick with the traditional cable style. My original thoughts were to go with S14 cables and try to make them work, since I’m pretty sure S13 cables will be too short.    Any help would be appreciated!
    • I did some research, considering you have a neo engine, how is that battery compatible? I checked centuries website and super cheap and says it's not compatible. Only this full size one is. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/ns60-mf
    • No, lets be honest here. I went to Winton and did a track day, for all the mods and V8 power and craziness I posted up a time that a K24 stock motor Honda Accord can do on the same tyres (narrower, too) 250kw and learning how to drive the f**kin thing is the sweet spot.
×
×
  • Create New...