Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey again,

Over the past couple of weeks, while surfing the net, I’ve seen numerous amounts of people asking about yellow headlights and how to restore them to factory fresh. I’ve even seen as far as people setting up group buys for $150+.

Now this really annoys me, as it’s a very simple process to do. Then you get people saying it’s really bad when they turn on their lights, so quickly come to the assumption it’s inside of the headlight. I guarantee 99% of the time it’s just on the outer surface.

This guide offers you guys a simple, cheap (talking about less than $10 here) yet equally effective solution. I’m talking no buffers, no special chemicals, no tricks.

Now, for those who don’t know, here’s a low down on why headlights turn yellow. It’s plastic! Simple. Like any plastic, as it ages the clarity disappears.

This really only happens on R33 and R34 Skyline’s due to the plastic housing headlight, unlike the R32 which is made of glass. Hence, this tut applies to all R33 and R34 Skylines.

Right:

Tools needed:

-Wet Sandpaper / Automotive sandpaper. You can pick this up at your local hardware store or auto paint supplier. You’ll need 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit. Just one of each will be more than sufficient.

-Car wax. (Just any reputable brand should do, or any you have lying around your house)

-Masking tape

-2x Pieces of cloth, preferably something not rough.

-Strong buffing arm

Step 1: Sandpaper / Preparation

Start by ripping considerable pieces of same paper (of each grit) and let them soak in a bucket of water for a good 20 minutes.

sandinghq3.th.jpg

Whilst the sandpaper is softening now’s a good time to mask of the car. Now this is a very important part as you want to mask off nay part you don’t wish to sand. You can never be too careful or use too much masking tape.

HINT: Instead of masking your bonnet, have it open all the time, that way you can save time and don’t F*ck it up.

maskingmj0.th.jpg

Step 2: Initial sanding

Start with the highest grit 1000 and start sanding the headlight. You should sand the headlight for a good 3-4 minutes on each grit. Now do you see the yellow particles you’re sanding off, yep that’s a good sign not just an illusion.

NOTE: When sanding you should only be sanding in one direction, i.e. left – right or up – down. This prevent swirls and deeper scratches.

Also while sanding always keep the sandpaper constantly wet to prevent clogging.

When finished, give it a wipe with some tissues. It should look like this a very dull finish.

dullfinish1bh0.th.jpg

Now your probably thinking at this stage “What the F have I done, it’s ruined. I’m going to kill that Chang guy” No no, don’t worry it’s all part of the process. Just keep reading.

Step 3: More sanding

Now after using 1000 grit slowly progress down, 1200, 1500, 2000 till it looks like (After final 2000 grit)

dullfinish2zn3.th.jpg

dullfinish3tg9.th.jpg

Step 4: Polishing

Now I’m sure like me, majority of you don’t have any special chemicals or buffers. Too expensive, too difficult, too lazy, too can’t be f’d

Anyway, get your polish that you’ve got and polish it like you would a car. But really get into in. I mean rub it hard. Use a lot of elbow grease.

polishjk1.th.jpg

Till it looks like this

after4uk1.th.jpg

NOTE: You should be polishing in a circular motion, as opposed to the sanding technique.

Use the second cloth to wipe away the wax as per normal. You should be waxing until you can’t feel your hand or about to pass out.

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

For light yellowing, you can get away with a product that Just Jap sells. It is a japanese polish specifically for headlights, with japanese writing all over it. You can also use a generic headlight/plastic polish from companies like 'Mothers', it will do the job, but is slower and requires a lot more patience than the Just Jap tube. In the old days we used to use toothpaste and then car polish. The old 750cc Suzuki two strokes [waterbottles] had a plastic lens on the speedo and tacho, the toothpaste/polish thing worked fine [probably prevented decay and gave a fresh mint finish as well.......lol].

  • 2 weeks later...
autosol ftw!

I use Autosol to polish acrylic, so I'd expect it to do a good job on headlights too. May even be less elbow grease than car polish. Also, Maguires do a plastic polish/restorer which may work easier. Great tut! Must have saved peeps lots of $$.

ive done mine twice with meguiars scratchx

first time didnt last that long but the second time i did a couple weeks ago and they still lookin good. pretty cheap, not much effort (push hard and scrob until u hear it squeeking( squeeky clean lol)) then wipe with a clean rag and ur done.

Hey guys, thanks all for the comments.

This thread was posted accidently twice. So anyone want to post anymore info please keep post in the original thread :) There's more pictures in the original post as well

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ye...-R-t249906.html

Oh and a slight edit. I noticed I posted "CAR WAX" lol. You should only be using polish. As polish removes scratches, not wax. So anywhere it says wax I mean polish.

Edited by Chang

beware some/lots car polish isnt good for plastics, some oil or silicone based can turn them yellow faster ?????

if you want it done right, use aircraft windscreen polish found at just about any airport. the headlights are not normal plexiglass plastic but high impact lexan like plane windows

I used Megs M105 on my R34/Supra to get out scratches and haze then Megs plastic polish to tidy up the shine a bit.no sandpaper needed

perfect like new and they stay that way now for over a years while stored outdoors in salt(a few houses from beach), Adelaide sun

for the cost of new headlights, I wouldnt use shonky products or cheap sandpaper either.

Dunno if this has been said, but another great alternative is 'GlassyLite'. This product would restore your head lamps back to its factory condition. With the added bonus of UV coat, to prevent your head lamps from yellowing any time soon. I have given this product a go and it was just excellent !

I would highly recommend giving this a shot ;)

Here's the DIY link:

2678909045_bedce0a2ec.jpg

Edited by C.T_07
hmm so i went thru a drive thru car wash last night, now the top & bottom sections of inside of the headlights are fogged up.

anyway to get rid of the fogging ?

inside i take it? pull a bulb out and use a hairdryer or heat gun on no or low heat to dry inside.

if the seal is broken that will happen again when washed or rains?

inside i take it? pull a bulb out and use a hairdryer or heat gun on no or low heat to dry inside.

if the seal is broken that will happen again when washed or rains?

yeh its in the inside as ive stated.

its strange cause it never happened before when i washed it myself by hand & bucket.

maybe the carwash sprayed at an angle wear the seal is broken on bottom of headlight perhaps.

i said it before and ill say it again, nissan failed BIG TIME with plastic headlights for R34

Hello,

You dont need wet dry paper

you dont need tape

you dont need nothing but 10 mins of your time

you need 1 rag and some fine polish ( 3M Finesse )

if you dont have a rag you can use ya old jocks

if you dont have polish go buy some this polish can be used on your car from paint to rims

start polishing within no time Ching Ching shinny new headlights

cheers

in the group buy that was offered a while ago (and sadly got shut down) if u want to go all out to stop it from happening, they were going to clear coat the headlights. so if u can be bothered, clean the lights as much as possible and u could take them down to spray painters and ask for a quick clear coat. not sure if it effects the light coming out by displacing it or anything like that but worth a try.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all. I am aware there is lots of discussions about jacking points, where to lift the car and what not. But as usual just a lot of "in my opinion" and nothing definitive, and everyone does it in a different way. I want to hear from some experienced people on which points on the car it's okay/safe/recommended to lift the car using a four point hoist/lift. I will attach some images of my underbody. Sills are largely okayish, the driver side jacking point is pretty mangled though and it looks like the underfloor is slightly pushed in too, but I might be wrong. In the German Skyline forum, the consensus is to use the sidemember chassis rails in the front and the rear subframe? bushing in the rear. I know the manual says to never use the sidemember for loading but lots of folk do it and it was definitely done on my car too as they are slightly bent too. Based on the images, what points do I use to not make the already present damage worse? I'd use wood or rubber blocks to spread the load across a bigger area of course. Driver side sidemember and jacking point mangled one) https://imgur.com/a/eKjzrJX Driver side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/W3DWF1P Passenger side sidemember and jacking point https://imgur.com/a/65UvIJe Passenger side rear jacking point https://imgur.com/a/h3k7j53 We can also see some underbody rust but so far it all looks somewhat treatable and nothing that requires a Yoshida style restoration.
    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
×
×
  • Create New...