Jump to content
SAU Community

Please Help!

Tyson 1990

By Tyson 1990,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

madbung Grand Master

madbung

Posted
Posted (edited)

I really don't know why I'm bothering with this....

23122008006.jpg

The plastic one is boot, the cuts are vastly different..It's from the factory.

Of the 30+ cars i've owned and 1000 odd new cars I've sold they are all the same, 1 for boot, 1 for ignition.

If your ignition key opens your boot either the lock is mashed or it's or been replaced and set for one key use.

Either way yes they are.

Edited by madbung
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249956-please-help/#findComment-4333257
Share on other sites
madbung Grand Master

madbung

Posted
Posted

Yours being a later model might work like this..

Valet lock system

Disabling the remote boot release.

Open the boot, and look for the opening about 10cm below the boot lip.

There is a small lever inside the opening.

Press the lever down to disable the remote boot release, pull up to re-enable.

The boot can only be opened by the square-headed ignition key if the remote release is disabled.

The round-headed valet key will open the car, and start it, but will not undo the boot, nor the glovebox if locked.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249956-please-help/#findComment-4333393
Share on other sites
Tyson 1990 Community Regular

Tyson 1990

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The key for my car ignition is the same for my boot. I just had my boot replaced, i got RACQ to look at it and they think something has been broken in the lock but they aren't sure.

I wasn't able to open up the boot by using the boot release inside the actual car, wouldn't open even in the slightest.

I just really wanted to drive my car today, it had been getting fixed and i just got it back tonight after 3 months. Anyway, i'll ring up the guy that fixed my car tommorrow :cheers:. I was hoping there might just be a quick solution to it but i guess not lol :P.

Anyway, thanks for all your help, its appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249956-please-help/#findComment-4333398
Share on other sites
Jack88 Experienced

Jack88

Posted
Posted

madbung, i disagree to your argument that they cut you a different key for the boot lol.i think you are mistaken.every brand new car i have every worked on..and well come to think about it every single car i have ever worked on that i know has not had the locks replaced uses the same key for boot,ign,doors what ever its all the same key. now my own skyline and every other skyline i have worked on the boot and ign key are the SAME and they are all 100% factory not broken locks never been changed etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249956-please-help/#findComment-4333470
Share on other sites
madbung Grand Master

madbung

Posted
Posted (edited)

Pls read valet key system, where one key will open all and the other wont when restricted by disabling the remote boot lock.lol

The cars we are discussing are late 80's to early 90's, the same period I sold new cars in. Before remote central locking (boot inc) became standard on most cars which inturn made the 2 key system obsolete.

The point of the 2 keys system is the same as the valet system, you can give the ignition key to someone to open and move the car

and still have the security of them not being able to open the boot or glove box.

As per factory these keys are always 1 square key ignition and 1 round boot key, the difference in shape is obviously for ease of use when it's night.

****pls also note: the guy who is asking for assitance has said his boot (lock?) has been replaced and his boot release appears disabled.

Round key in a square hole perhaps? :P

Anyway enough explaining the obvious, I hope you get it sorted easily Tyson.

Edited by madbung
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249956-please-help/#findComment-4333725
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Everyone is too used to learning from places like HPA "how to tune" and what to expect at what point, rather than being able to see "The computer says I'm in cell with Row = 8, column =4, and I can see my fuel is lean, so lets add more" Everyone wants "real units", which helps for someone picking it up for the first time and seeing how bad the tune is if they're not used to touching it.   However, I think for most of us who want to play with it, you're 100% right, we're only needing to learn about it for OUR CAR. Which makes it great, and we don't need to care what the real values are, we just need to know which cell it is, that's causing the lean or rich point, or that we want more ignition timing or less. But again, everyone wants everything super you beaut and nearly self tuning, with VE maps, and a billion compensations...   Though then there's me over here when I'm doing reverse engineering work just reading data in hex format that most people couldn't work anything out from. Yet I can see what's going on.
    • blind_elk
      [VIC] RB20DET Block

      By blind_elk · Posted

      Gone.
    • EC04
      R34 Skyline Knee Pads

      By EC04 · Posted

      €1.300    €
    • EC04
      R34 Skyline Knee Pads

      By EC04 · Posted

    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Um. No. Since Matt introduced the TIM it has become a lot easier to deal with the consequences of changing K for AFM and injector swaps. Then, tuning is a f**king doddle. No-one needs to know or care how many grams of air are flowing or any other bullshit. Need more fuel in a cell? Add more fuel. Need more timing in a cell. Add more timing. Need to adjust any of the other tables for warm up and so on? No harder than anything else. Sure - it's not an ECU system for starting from scratch on an arbitrary engine. But then.....it was never supposed to be, not recommended for, and almost never used that way. So.... On your engine, in particular, Nistune/Nissan OEM is about as sophisticated and difficult as banging 2 rocks together. Those ECUs are primitive and simple. There is nothing difficult there. I learnt Nistune from scratch, created new maps with extended axes, interpolated/extrapolated the original maps onto them and tuned my RB20 (basically the same ECU as your 26 ECU) all by myself, more than 20 years ago. And that was long before even TIM.
×
×
  • Create New...