Jump to content
SAU Community

Dyno And Compression Question

SLYDA

By SLYDA,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SLYDA Community Regular

SLYDA

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Just had a quick retune on my car, last time it made 353.8HP, this time it made like 320HP however i have upgraded a few things, new coils, fixed a blown out turbo to manifold gasket and installed a thermo fan. The car now feels faster however its less power than before? now when he showed me with air temp correction on it showed 449HP which is closer to what i would believe it to make based on everyone else that has the same mods? im running 1.45BAR and hits full boost around 3800RMP this time it was about 10 - 15 degrees hotter than last time though however. It was done on a dynapac hub dyno.

Also are peoples cars normally dyno'd on a power run with air temp correction on or off? also does the shootout mode make a big difference?

I have PFC with Boost Control kit

HKS 3037 Pro S 0.68 rear

740CC injectors

Splitfire coils

Full exhuast.

Bla Bla Bla who cares right?

and a fully stock motor.

Thanks for your help guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249960-dyno-and-compression-question/
Share on other sites
JMW Mentor

JMW

Posted
Posted (edited)

The old "seat of the pants" rule is the best. If it feels faster, then generally it is!

Temperature does play a bit role whether its hub or roller dyno.

The thermo will have removed alot of paracitic drag from the motor.

Shoot out mode always reads higher because of the ramp rate the dyno runs at, hence some exagerated dyno figures but no proof on the track!

Slower ramp rate (more load on the cell) = more exact power figure :P

Edited by Jamesrb25
raZ1911 Proficient

raZ1911

Posted
Posted

"The old "seat of the pants" rule is the best. If it feels faster, then generally it is! "

Thats not true, if cars are set up differently less laggyer but maybe a bit less power, different turbo setups etc some may feel faster but loose top end depending on tune etc.

Post up dyno sheet.

SLYDA Community Regular

SLYDA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i noticed the thermo fan straight away, car was less rough and went to redline heaps quicker. And it was the same dyno. Checked the compression before the run and changed coils was between 148 and 151 across all cylinders and dont think i had any vac leaks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Matvei27
      WTB noltec r32 front upper (camber) arms

      By Matvei27 · Posted

      I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • MBS206
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You miss spelled bearings...
    • Kinkstaah
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Just putting it out there, that's a decent list. You would be better off *not* doing *any* of that and buying someone else's modded car. Like mine. Or anybody else's. Yes it's lotto dependent and all this and that but that 70K (remember, double your guesses) could go elsewhere. Keep it stock, save your money, go lowball @Dose Pipe Sutututu :p
    • GTSBoy
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does not mean what you think it means. The continual rising coefficient is the coefficient of friction that continues to rise with increasing temperature. Not "rising during a single stop", except inasmuch as the brakes should get hotter during a single stop. The RR would not be the best choice for a streeter. Yeah....no it's not. JAX would rummage around in the "shit pads we use for all shitboxen that come in here" and install those.
×
×
  • Create New...