Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine currently:

Rear Axle: Left Right

Camber: -2.08' -0.43'

Individual Toe: -0.1mm +0.1mm

Total Toe: +0.07mm

Geometric Axis: +0"01'

Front Axle: Left Right

Camber: -2"37' -1"20'

Individual Toe: +0.0mm +0.0mm

Total Toe: +0.0mm

Side Notes: Wheel alignment was done by Pedders Suspension at Artarmon. left hand side of the vehicle has previous accident damage from a large impact. Alignment machine was calibrated straight before the alignment was done.

Drivability: Car drives straight as a die, corners harder to the right than to the left, but handles like it's on rails, rides true straight, can let go of the wheel, roll straight, drive straight, and brake straight.

Anyway, lets here more.

B.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/249969-the-giant-alignment-thread/
Share on other sites

Too much negative camber on the rear -1 is plenty

You also have basicly no toe on the rear. Toe it in 1mm each side

Front get a set of adjustable upper arms and set the camber to neg 1.5

Toe it out 1.5-2mm each side on the front, you'll notice the turn in will be alot sharper

Front Axle: Left Right

Camber : -1.71 -2.11

Individual toe : +1.5mm +1.5mm

Total Toe : +3mm

Rear axle: Left Right

Camber: -2.01 -2.17

Individual toe: +1.8mm +1.9mm

Total Toe: +3.6mm

Geometrical axis: +0.13

So far so good! Please correct these settings if you know better!

If your prepared to travel, East coast suspension are very good. If not then any pedders/bobjane/ tire shop with a decent machine can set the car up to whatever you tell them to do.

Just be sure you get a print out of what the results were so you can keep it for future reference.

Too much negative camber on the rear -1 is plenty

You also have basicly no toe on the rear. Toe it in 1mm each side

Front get a set of adjustable upper arms and set the camber to neg 1.5

Toe it out 1.5-2mm each side on the front, you'll notice the turn in will be alot sharper

i have adjustable noltec uppers, setting camber to neg 1.5 and toe to 1.5-2mm each side on the front, is this a std/recommended setting for 32GTR??

any toe for rear?? also roughly how much are alignment for 4wd cars??

I'm no expert at all. But I thought for street you want about 1mm toe in each side rear (for stability at speed), and zero toe for front. (Maybe I'm wrong but that's what I was going to ask for when I fit this HICAS lock bar)

Also thought front toe-in increased turn-in at the expense of increased understeer mid-corner. Toe out gives less turn-in but decreased understeer mid-corner (oh and increased tyre wear)

Edited by simpletool
I'm no expert at all. But I thought for street you want about 1mm toe in each side rear (for stability at speed), and zero toe for front. (Maybe I'm wrong but that's what I was going to ask for when I fit this HICAS lock bar)

Also thought front toe-in increased turn-in at the expense of increased understeer mid-corner. Toe out gives less turn-in but decreased understeer mid-corner (oh and increased tyre wear)

toe in is good for daily passenger cars, not so good for exploiting a good sport car chassis depending on the track we run lots of toe out :cheers:

i usually leave the rear about 1.5mm toe in per side (3mm total toe in).

Went to Artarmon Pedders today (round the corner) the blokes there are tops!

Anyway

REAR SETUP:

Camber - Left: -2.19 Right: -2.09 (I run 19's now so camber is an issue, standard adjustments)

Individual Toe: Rear Left: +0.6 rear right: +0.6

FRONT SETUP:

Camber - Left: -1.44 Front -1.22 (front rides 10mm higher)

Individual Toe - 0.5 - 0.5

Geo Axis - Nill

Edited by DECIM8
Went to Artarmon Pedders today (round the corner) the blokes there are tops!

Next time your there, tell him Brian with the Silver GTR said to say G'day.

I use Scott at Pedders, he knows my car well, and was willing to do my last alignment for free (straight after a repair job on the car to check everything over).

He will be doing most of my work, he calibrates the machine before I get the car up there, knows his stuff, and is up front and bloody honest when it comes to the car.

Yes, my left hand side is way out camber wise, but there is reasons for this (car has a few small issues). Will be getting some new gear to resovle my issues, but she drives alright.

BTW, for those who dont know, the more toe-in you have in the front, the snappier and tighter steering will feel. When I first got my car back from the repairer, it dead-set felt like a racing car, and I found the Toe-in at the front to be 5.8mm and the rears to be 3mm. Now it's less 'exciting' in the steering department, but not as wrestle-happy either, quite comfortable to drive.

I will be getting numerous adjustments done to further tweak the handling.

B.

r32 drift n track car only

current drift set up

front right - 1.6 deg front left- 1.6 deg

caster +10 deg

front total toe 4mm

rear right -.5 left -.5

total toe 0

corner weighted

51/49 % front to rear

1259 kg with driver n half a tank

need more front camber but i want to see how it handled before i modded the front end

will go to around 3.0 n see how it feels

for circuit i would run a little more rear toe n rear camber + shock,spring n bar changes

i woud be keen to c what other drifters r running

and why is no one eles posting caster

caster is your friend

  • 1 year later...

Whats a good short course/motorkhana/slow speed alignment set up?

I have a 32gtst, coils, caster arms, rear camber arms, pinapples, rack extension and ends etc....

Ha ha ha,, and a turbo that's waaay to big!

Whats a good short course/motorkhana/slow speed alignment set up?

I have a 32gtst, coils, caster arms, rear camber arms, pinapples, rack extension and ends etc....

Ha ha ha,, and a turbo that's waaay to big!

well my car does that stuff well. I'm no expert but here goes.

Front Camber, -3.5

Castor, 6.5

ride height, 350mm

Toe, - 1mm total toe out, 0.5mm each side

Rear camber, -1.5

Ride height, 340mm

Rear Toe, 3.4 Total Toe IN

thats on Toyo R888's in my 33 gtst.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can't agree. If we hadn't all been brought up with the noise caused by the inefficiency of an ICE, no-one would actually ask for all that. An EV is like any other car, it just goes better. 
    • 2 more things I have to work out Easy one first...can anyone describe how to pull the fuel pump and sender from a 33? I can feel there is some sort of mount and clips but don't have a manual and don't know the trick......if not I'll spend some quality time in the boot witha lighter tomorrow. Second question is harder.  He had changed the upper plenum to a plazmaman but clearly got to a point with the vacuum hoses where he said "f**k it, I'm going inside for a beer" and never came back to that job because it was a mess. Am I right to think that I need: 1. Pre throttle (16mm nipple on inlet) to AAC's main 20mm fitting as the main pre throttle feed 2. ACC has a second 13m outlet joined to that 20mm fitting which I think is the pre throttle air supply for the cold start valve? 3. Cold start valve's outlet fitting then goes to Plenum (to bypass throttle?) There is some adapter on the back of the ACC with 2 fittings (13mm and 10mm), do I run the 10mm through a 1 way valve to the Brake Booster (4) and the 13mm back to a 13mm nipple on the Plenum as the Idle control (5)? 6. Run a 6mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart BOV to the Plenum? 7. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Reg to the Plenum? 8. Run a 5mm vacuum line from the Turbosmart Boost controller to the Plenum? (Wastegate already has a pre turbo pressure source running to the solenoid then the wastegate on the other side of the bay)  Any help appreciated, the GTR is quite different setup and while the Stagea also has FFP it is different again. (And no Dose, I'm not pissing it all off and putting a ethrottle on it....)
    • OK, onto some questions to try and speed up the process a little. Does anyone know what core this Garret is? I know it is a high flowed standard turbo but nothing else about it. Tag says OK 0169J - 446179-5032 Same question for the injectors, I don't know what they flow and ideally can work it out before it hits the dyno, they are a mustard yellow side feed
    • Quick side trip into the engine externals, alternator and PS were in place including tensioned belts, but the PS was dry (my guess is he had the steering rack reco-ed). Filled it up with Transmax Z but it will need more bleeding once the engine is running no doubt. BTW I've said before, I don't know what kind of soft animals you have in the city, but out here they breed the rats tough. I bet they were disappointed when they tasted synthetic ATF.... Coilpacks are Splitfires with a factory loom in reasonable condition. I didn't pull one put I bet the spark plugs are new as its a new engine
    • Onto intake pressure test. I have a Raceworks (damn brand thieves!) pressure test adapter that lets you apply pressure through a standard tyre valve and comes with a pressure gauge.....I just blocked off the other end immediately before the throttle body. Applied 30psi....and the turbo intake immediately popped off with a bang. Sorted that but it was still leaking, turns out there is a pinhole leak at the BOV adapter that I'll have to find a local place to TIG up. I'm sure it makes SFA difference with such a small leak but I want it to be right. Everything else up to the throttle body was good. Also cleaned and oiled the KNX cone filter, and this is the AFM if anyone can identify it (car runs a PowerFC)
×
×
  • Create New...