Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr With Black Smoke/miss Fire


whiteboy01
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have owned the GTR for about 2 years now and have blow 2 lots of turbos in that time. Being a poor bastard and liking the stock power I replaced them with stock ones again. That was all fine and dandy makeing about 0.9 Bar boost all day every day. The car is completly stock engine wise. Basic support mods include HKS Intercooler, HKS Exhuast and HKS BOV. Stock ECU, Injectors ect

Now heres my problem. I have been using it as my dayly driver for abit now giving it a fairly easy life putting around in traffic. Now all of a sudden it doesn't like to boost pass 0.6 bar and blows a f**k load of smoke out the back. Missfires and doesn't go very fast. The car still revs to 7.5k, idles fine, builds boost quickly as well. Smokey ilde sometimes.

I have checked the following -

  1. Blocked BOV - Didnt notice and different
  2. Checked all pipping - intercooler hoses and fuel lines - all ok here
  3. Reset ECU - no change
  4. Checked for shity fuel with water in it. Flushed tank - still the same

Going to do a compression test this weekend will report back with what i find, the problem is i have done alot of research and it points to a leaking intercooler pipe. Checked all the piping a million times now and still nothing comes up.

I also can't take it to a machinic because i live in a small rural town full of FORDs and Holdens and the mechs scratch there heads with my car. My last resort will be chucking it in the back or a trailer and taking it to HyperDrive MS.

Cheers, :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

black smoke is excess fuel

checked AFM's? Mine started to occasional stall whilst on light load. needed cleaning and now all good, better + better throttle response.

Checked plugs / gaps / leads ?? with increased boost the spark can be 'blown' out with a large gap/stuffed plug as boost increases

yeh can imagine very few nissan turbos floating round in gero :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont know the gaps of the top of my head, never replaced/regapped mine, do a search

the problem doesnt sound mechanical as you said the car idles fine/normal & builds boost as per normal.

am thinking a boost leak but you've said you already checked all hoses. could be a stuck open bov.

you've dropped 0.3 bar all of a sudden and theres misfiring, spluttering so am thikning theres still 0.9bar worth of fuel going in

Edited by Mike__
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont know the gaps of the top of my head, never replaced/regapped mine, do a search

the problem doesnt sound mechanical as you said the car idles fine/normal & builds boost as per normal.

am thinking a boost leak but you've said you already checked all hoses. could be a stuck open bov.

you've dropped 0.3 bar all of a sudden and theres misfiring, spluttering so am thikning theres still 0.9bar worth of fuel going in

Just for a update the car is struggling to idle now, blowing black smoke on idle. Car still revs fine but with alot of miss fire.

Compression test will tell whats wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yer man... had a few goodies since then. Now she is stuffed, hardly idles and blows white and blue smoke now...

definently comp test it.

white smoke is unburnt fuel and blue is oil smoke.

almost sounds like a hole in a piston..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

definently comp test it.

white smoke is unburnt fuel and blue is oil smoke.

almost sounds like a hole in a piston..

Just to correct that,

White smoke is coolant

Black is Petrol

Blue is oil

Edited by bnr#@
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to correct that,

White smoke is coolant

Black is Petrol

Blue is oil

what ever mate.

EXCESS fuel is black smoke.

UNBURNT fuel from not unuf compression or no spark is white smoke.

water smoke is steam not smoke.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what ever mate.

EXCESS fuel is black smoke.

UNBURNT fuel from not unuf compression or no spark is white smoke.

water smoke is steam not smoke.

So now compression test is next....

If it is a piston that is stuffed is it possible to do a RB30 NA swap over? Any good guids out? I have found the PDF but it skipped alot of things like ECU ect....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

blue smoke is oil burning

white smoke is oil heating up not being burnt.

You might have a shagged turbo

check coolant/oil levels & if there contaminated by one or the other.

agree to do a compression & leak down test

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[if it is a piston that is stuffed is it possible to do a RB30 NA swap over? Any good guids out? I have found the PDF but it skipped alot of things like ECU ect....

im thinking of doing an rb30 conversion as well, we'll have to have another drag after, lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[if it is a piston that is stuffed is it possible to do a RB30 NA swap over? Any good guids out? I have found the PDF but it skipped alot of things like ECU ect....

im thinking of doing an rb30 conversion as well, we'll have to have another drag after, lol

compression test done

  • 1st 140
  • 2nd 140
  • 3rd 150
  • 4th 150
  • 5th 130
  • 6th 130

All rough figures being noob at it doesn't help. Give or take 5PSI. So what does this mean? Everything ok? I'm leaning towards the turbos now. Is there any way to check?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do a diagnostic search, could easily be an AFM or cas or igniter.

Ok how do i check the AFM? I have unpluged them and notice both times the car nearly stalling but car ran the same. Do i need to clean them? If so what with? I have the stock air box and just a panel filter.

CAS? Crank angle sensor? is that on the front of the engine? Unpluged that and the car didn't start. Pluged it back in and the car was the same.

Fuel. Don't know how i'm spose to check the fuel pressure. I will ask my mech mate tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are these the Dmax ones you are in reference too? https://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35#description Not a bad idea to get the uni flange ones. I have sent just jap an email too. Will see what they say lmao. Only thing is the Dmax ones are on a big back order. Low key anything will be better then my OEM ones I got as they are sounding like popcorn when I go under load lmao 😂☠️🪦.
    • They should do. I have S14 (or something S chassis, anyway) driveshafts in my R32 (because my diff flanges have 3x2). They're the right length. When you go looking for R32/3/4 driveshafts (for turbos), they're all the same thing, so are the same length. So there really shouldn't be any reason why those cheapies from JJ won't also fit an R34. R32/3 NA should also be the same thing. The (3x the price) D-Max ones are uni-fit. They have 5x1 and 3x2 bolt holes and say they cover all the cars. So that would also suggest that they are all the same except for the flanges. And in that case, the flange goes both ways. I'd be buying the D-Max ones if I ever have to replace a shaft. Because that will open up diff options without needing to juggle shafts also. Juggling shafts is gay.
    • Yeah with the adaptors they do look like the photo above - just the fitment within the plenum itself and then further with the rail to the intake is questionable - we shall see tomorrow hopefully once I get some replies from Aeroflow, maybe those bosses are the missing piece....
    • Should be fine, if you have it sitting too far in, you end up just spraying the walls and have shit idle. You "can" run them like that, however I don't think it's a great idea (also depends on your plenum, might be good to just get the injector bosses first, mock it up and see if you need to get the bottom extension) Ideally your injectors, with the extension should look like this  (Not my photos, just Google)
    • Thanks for the replies guys, it's really appreciated.  It seems the kit was supposed to come with those injector bosses but hasn't. Unsure if they'll help as even with the adaptors to make them a 3/4 height injector they still sit too far out so mount the fuel rail?
×
×
  • Create New...