Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr With Black Smoke/miss Fire

whiteboy01

By whiteboy01,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

MYRB30 Rising Star

MYRB30

Posted
Posted

Mate I sympathise with you being in a small town, been there done that.

My first thought was it sounds like you have an air leak, have you checked right over all your hoses??? Especially the two on the intercooler? They can split under the outter cover and be a royal pain to find.

Can you hear any strange noises? other than the actual engine running poor?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
whiteboy01 Collaborator

whiteboy01

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Mate I sympathise with you being in a small town, been there done that.

My first thought was it sounds like you have an air leak, have you checked right over all your hoses??? Especially the two on the intercooler? They can split under the outter cover and be a royal pain to find.

Can you hear any strange noises? other than the actual engine running poor?

Yep checked them all... did the water trick when it's running, just a thought could it be the timing belt has skiped a tooth? making the time way out?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MYRB30 Rising Star

MYRB30

Posted
Posted

Ok, so no air leaks. But overfuelling still? Next thing to check is the AFM's.

There are two problems with GTR AFM'S as far as I'm aware.

1: The actual loom connector where it plugs onto the AFM. The pins loose their tension causing various, constant or intermitent problems. I had this, took a little while to track down. It would start running rough, smoking etc, so I could pull over, wriggle the connector and you can hear the engine change note.

These connectors are not available from Nissan, some of the SAU supporters sell them. In my case I was working at an importer at the time, Subaru use the same STYLE connector, so I used better condition pins from a subaru connector and joined into the car's loom. Have done over 30,000km with no problem since.

2: The other problem is under the top cover of the AFM there are solder joints where the pins are soldered. With the weight of the connector on them these can fail. There is a thread on SAU showing how to do this. It is quite simple.

Have a look at these two things before stressing yourself out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
whiteboy01 Collaborator

whiteboy01

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Ok, so no air leaks. But overfuelling still? Next thing to check is the AFM's.

There are two problems with GTR AFM'S as far as I'm aware.

1: The actual loom connector where it plugs onto the AFM. The pins loose their tension causing various, constant or intermitent problems. I had this, took a little while to track down. It would start running rough, smoking etc, so I could pull over, wriggle the connector and you can hear the engine change note.

These connectors are not available from Nissan, some of the SAU supporters sell them. In my case I was working at an importer at the time, Subaru use the same STYLE connector, so I used better condition pins from a subaru connector and joined into the car's loom. Have done over 30,000km with no problem since.

2: The other problem is under the top cover of the AFM there are solder joints where the pins are soldered. With the weight of the connector on them these can fail. There is a thread on SAU showing how to do this. It is quite simple.

Have a look at these two things before stressing yourself out

Cheers. can i solder the wires directly to the AFM to test it out? Not wise?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MYRB30 Rising Star

MYRB30

Posted
Posted

I've actually seen people use individual socket terminals that fit the afm pins then silicon the whole thing up! I personally would never do something like that.

I actually tested mine, I used a couple of paper clips to back probe the afm's with a multimeter when the car was running. My signals were way out of spec, thats what lead me down the afm path.

I cant remember what the specs were and what terminals to test. Its in the workshop manual. I can get it for you tomorrow.

Another thing that can cause similar issues, but it would be constant, is if the fuel pressure reg seized shut, But I'd be checking the AFMs first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mike__ Enthusiast

Mike__

Posted
Posted

agreed with the self diagnostic check, which is how i knew my AFM were causing an intermitent problem.

do a search and find the link, + a list of the codes.

from memory and this is assuming you have the same single led rear ecu (mines 89')...

remove passenger side kick panel

undo ecu

turn screw on rear of ecu all the way to the right

turn on ignition, wait 2 seconds

turn screw all the way back counter clockwise

the led light on the rear and a light on the dash will flash the code (check with list of codes)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
whiteboy01 Collaborator

whiteboy01

Posted
  • Author
Posted
agreed with the self diagnostic check, which is how i knew my AFM were causing an intermitent problem.

do a search and find the link, + a list of the codes.

from memory and this is assuming you have the same single led rear ecu (mines 89')...

remove passenger side kick panel

undo ecu

turn screw on rear of ecu all the way to the right

turn on ignition, wait 2 seconds

turn screw all the way back counter clockwise

the led light on the rear and a light on the dash will flash the code (check with list of codes)

Cheers for that i will try to get to it tonight...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
zram Rookie

zram

Posted
Posted
agreed with the self diagnostic check, which is how i knew my AFM were causing an intermitent problem.

do a search and find the link, + a list of the codes.

from memory and this is assuming you have the same single led rear ecu (mines 89')...

remove passenger side kick panel

undo ecu

turn screw on rear of ecu all the way to the right

turn on ignition, wait 2 seconds

turn screw all the way back counter clockwise

the led light on the rear and a light on the dash will flash the code (check with list of codes)

G'day guys. Just wondering if its the same to same on a R32 GTS-t??? Problems with mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
whiteboy01 Collaborator

whiteboy01

Posted
  • Author
Posted
G'day guys. Just wondering if its the same to same on a R32 GTS-t??? Problems with mine.

UPDATE!

I stripped out the AFM meter to start checking them... as i removed the airbox i notice that the twin turbo pipe was semi loose...

BAM

The twin turbo pipe has a little elbo that sits inbetween the turbo inlet and TT pipe, it had cracked in two and was just sitting on there causing the boost leek and really shit performace. Now to find this part....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Beanie
      Hello from the UK

      By Beanie · Posted

      Well I had 2 choices from then on. I either had to (reluctantly) move it on to another potential buyer and take the loss on the chin. Or I stick with it and turn it into a restoration project. I chose the latter. Project Snowstorm began! The frp body kit was the first thing to go. Turns out the original colour used to be silver. The Neo and gearbox were removed, along with the prop and exhaust system before it took a trip to the bodyshop, where I wouldn’t see it again for quite some time due to the pandemic hitting very soon after they took it away. Eventually, progress began and damage assessments made. Even the front chassis leg was in pretty bad shape!     Then the chopping commenced. For these guys it was just usual routine, to me it looked absolutely terrifying!   More to follow as I’m struggling to focus on my screen at 12:45 am!!!
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing. I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card.  I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring. Cheers, 
    • GTSBoy
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      PRP RB26 cast block + head prototype running

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.
    • PranK
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things.  Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good.  Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 
×
×
  • Create New...