R32 Gtr With Black Smoke/miss Fire

[MYRB30]

Mate I sympathise with you being in a small town, been there done that.

My first thought was it sounds like you have an air leak, have you checked right over all your hoses??? Especially the two on the intercooler? They can split under the outter cover and be a royal pain to find.

Can you hear any strange noises? other than the actual engine running poor?

[whiteboy01]

Mate I sympathise with you being in a small town, been there done that.

My first thought was it sounds like you have an air leak, have you checked right over all your hoses??? Especially the two on the intercooler? They can split under the outter cover and be a royal pain to find.

Can you hear any strange noises? other than the actual engine running poor?

Yep checked them all... did the water trick when it's running, just a thought could it be the timing belt has skiped a tooth? making the time way out?

[shanef]

busted cooler pipe? hole in the cooler?

[MYRB30]

Ok, so no air leaks. But overfuelling still? Next thing to check is the AFM's.

There are two problems with GTR AFM'S as far as I'm aware.

1: The actual loom connector where it plugs onto the AFM. The pins loose their tension causing various, constant or intermitent problems. I had this, took a little while to track down. It would start running rough, smoking etc, so I could pull over, wriggle the connector and you can hear the engine change note.

These connectors are not available from Nissan, some of the SAU supporters sell them. In my case I was working at an importer at the time, Subaru use the same STYLE connector, so I used better condition pins from a subaru connector and joined into the car's loom. Have done over 30,000km with no problem since.

2: The other problem is under the top cover of the AFM there are solder joints where the pins are soldered. With the weight of the connector on them these can fail. There is a thread on SAU showing how to do this. It is quite simple.

Have a look at these two things before stressing yourself out.

[whiteboy01]

Ok, so no air leaks. But overfuelling still? Next thing to check is the AFM's.

There are two problems with GTR AFM'S as far as I'm aware.

1: The actual loom connector where it plugs onto the AFM. The pins loose their tension causing various, constant or intermitent problems. I had this, took a little while to track down. It would start running rough, smoking etc, so I could pull over, wriggle the connector and you can hear the engine change note.

These connectors are not available from Nissan, some of the SAU supporters sell them. In my case I was working at an importer at the time, Subaru use the same STYLE connector, so I used better condition pins from a subaru connector and joined into the car's loom. Have done over 30,000km with no problem since.

2: The other problem is under the top cover of the AFM there are solder joints where the pins are soldered. With the weight of the connector on them these can fail. There is a thread on SAU showing how to do this. It is quite simple.

Have a look at these two things before stressing yourself out

Cheers. can i solder the wires directly to the AFM to test it out? Not wise?

[MYRB30]

I've actually seen people use individual socket terminals that fit the afm pins then silicon the whole thing up! I personally would never do something like that.

I actually tested mine, I used a couple of paper clips to back probe the afm's with a multimeter when the car was running. My signals were way out of spec, thats what lead me down the afm path.

I cant remember what the specs were and what terminals to test. Its in the workshop manual. I can get it for you tomorrow.

Another thing that can cause similar issues, but it would be constant, is if the fuel pressure reg seized shut, But I'd be checking the AFMs first.

[Mike__]

agreed with the self diagnostic check, which is how i knew my AFM were causing an intermitent problem.

do a search and find the link, + a list of the codes.

from memory and this is assuming you have the same single led rear ecu (mines 89')...

remove passenger side kick panel

undo ecu

turn screw on rear of ecu all the way to the right

turn on ignition, wait 2 seconds

turn screw all the way back counter clockwise

the led light on the rear and a light on the dash will flash the code (check with list of codes)

[whiteboy01]

agreed with the self diagnostic check, which is how i knew my AFM were causing an intermitent problem.

do a search and find the link, + a list of the codes.

from memory and this is assuming you have the same single led rear ecu (mines 89')...

remove passenger side kick panel

undo ecu

turn screw on rear of ecu all the way to the right

turn on ignition, wait 2 seconds

turn screw all the way back counter clockwise

the led light on the rear and a light on the dash will flash the code (check with list of codes)

Cheers for that i will try to get to it tonight...

[zram]

agreed with the self diagnostic check, which is how i knew my AFM were causing an intermitent problem.

do a search and find the link, + a list of the codes.

from memory and this is assuming you have the same single led rear ecu (mines 89')...

remove passenger side kick panel

undo ecu

turn screw on rear of ecu all the way to the right

turn on ignition, wait 2 seconds

turn screw all the way back counter clockwise

the led light on the rear and a light on the dash will flash the code (check with list of codes)

G'day guys. Just wondering if its the same to same on a R32 GTS-t??? Problems with mine.

[whiteboy01]

G'day guys. Just wondering if its the same to same on a R32 GTS-t??? Problems with mine.

UPDATE!

I stripped out the AFM meter to start checking them... as i removed the airbox i notice that the twin turbo pipe was semi loose...

BAM

The twin turbo pipe has a little elbo that sits inbetween the turbo inlet and TT pipe, it had cracked in two and was just sitting on there causing the boost leek and really shit performace. Now to find this part....