Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i am new to these forums .i am prepared to offer my services to the members .

i have access to a cnc lathe with live tooling and also a machine centre "mill'.

my proposal is if anyone has any ideas /parts they would like to have cnc machined and there is a interest in it on the forum to make it worth making ,i am prepared to make parts .obviously the person that has the idea will recieve their part for free or for cost of material if it goes to manufacture.

prefer to make cosmetic parts or bolt on like brake res caps /covers etc you may have seen a part for another make/model car or don't know where to buy the part from .no performance parts like turbo bov etc

start sending your ideas

dave

Edited by texasholdem
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250002-look-cnc-machining-custom-parts/
Share on other sites

To be honest, i have done this brake conversion on a car. Its really not a good setup at all, as to make the pad gat close to full contact on the rotor, we had to machine a lot of alloy out of the calliper to suit the different diameter rotor, which is certainly highly illegal , as it weakens the calliper, and even after taking enough metal off the calliper that the bolts holding the two halves of the calliper were exposed, even then the pad hung off the edge of the disc, which obviously isnt good for pad wear and brake performance. Although it seems like a good upgrade, the end result is definately a :laugh: and could never be properly engineered

i have done a few brake conversion kits and wondered how it would go with the extra dia on the disc .

if someone had done it and could supply a sample to copy it would be easier .i dont really want to pull my car apart to jig up a caliper if it isnt a really good conversion .

my wife uses our r34 as a daily so a brake kit is something that would take time .

more interested in making bolt on bits or cosmetic bits .billet strut brace mounts etc would be easier to make . i will have a look over the car the next few days for suggestions and see what ideas i can come up with

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
    • 12.8 for a great condition, fully charged battery. If the battery will only ever properly charge to about 12.2V, the battery is well worn, and will be dead soon. When I say properly charge, I mean disconnect it from the car, charge it to its max, and then put your multimeter on it, and see what it reads about an hour later. Dieing batteries will hold a higher "surface charge", but the minutest load, even from just a multimeter (which in the scheme of things is considered totally irrelevant, especially at this level) will be enough over an hour to make the surface charge disappear.   I spend wayyy too much time analysing battery voltages for customers when they whinge that our equipment (telematics device) is causing their battery to drain all the time. Nearly every case I can call it within about 2 months of when the battery will be completely dead. Our bigger customers don't even debate it with me any more ha ha ha. A battery at 12.4 to 12.6 I'd still be happy enough with. However, there's a lot of things that can cause a parasitic draw in a car, first of which is alarms and immobilisers. To start checking, put your multimeter into amps, (and then connect it properly) and measure your power draw with everything off. Typical car battery is about 40aH. Realistically, you'll get about half this before the car won't start. So a 100mA power drain will see you pretty much near unstartable in 8 days.
    • Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.
    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue. Isn't 12v low, shouldn't it be around 12.5v?
×
×
  • Create New...