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R32 GT-R for sale

It has come to an unfortunate event for my GT-R. From what I can gather it has suffered bottom end damage to the bearings.

I have had this vehicle for nearly 3 years and has done well to this day. It is unfortunate I cannot spend any more cash or time on it as my life roads are taking me elsewhere. It is a very sad day for me, as if I have lost something really close to me.

What this car has (which has been the same since I purchased it):

- White 1989 October make, unverified 170,000km on the clock (35,000km driven by me);

- Stock engine, standard boost;

- Genuine HKS air filters;

- Less than 10,000km old 5-puck extra heavy duty clutch;

- Kakimoto full exhaust system from dump pipes;

- Aftermarket light weight R32 GTR rear spoiler;

- Recaro Driver seat (hole developed in kidney support);

- Speedline 17 x 9 white light weight rims, wrapped in 245/45/R17;

- Lowered springs on stock shocks.

It does need some painting to the bonnet and front bumper, which would be less than $500 to do.

Location is in Brisbane Southside.

As I am aware of what a rebuild would cost I would ideally want to sell the car as it is for $12,500 ONO OBO.

As I mentioned above, I no longer have the cash or time to continue with this car which I am willing to negotiate on the price.

Pictures will come up later.

Happy to answer any questions

Contact:

Arbess

0437 638 842

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250040-r32-gt-r-for-sale/
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    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
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