Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

As the topic suggests I'm having a few dramas with the factory cental locking system in my 1999 R34 GTR. I'm currently installing a new alarm into the GTR as the old alarm was an extremely dodgy install. The previous install used an aftermarket solenoid tek screwed into the door, however I'm 99% sure the existing box installed in the door hooked upto the locking system not only acts as the sensor to activate the solenoid on the passengers door but also as a solenoid for the remote central locking (I only got one factory GTR key with the car which I'm assuming is a spare as it doesn't have any remote central locking buttons on it, but being a GTR you'd assume it did infact come from the factory with remote central locking).

I can find the Lock and Unlock wires that trigger the passenger door (from the low current side of the relay) however I'm at a loss in where to find these wires for the drivers side.

I've looked through a few circuit diagrams I could dig up on the internet and I now think the solenoid in the drivers door is powered from the factory immobiliser box.

I have the R34 service manual translated into english I dug up on the internet but it's only got the GT-T immobiliser pinouts in it :laugh: The GTR appears to have a different box..

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give,

Marcus

:down:

GTT & GTR run the same body harness :laugh:

there are 2 actuators in the doors anyway as the std remote entry works. as fo doing it and grabbing the triggers - got a meter and electronics knowledge? you will need to find,split and modify the remote entry unit.

it's a little more confusing than that.. the GTR is setup differently to the GTT.

there are 3 separate boxes controlling the remote central locking & immobiliser

the first is the actual immobiliser box itself, the second is the relay box for the passengers side of the central locking inside the car, the third looks like a relay for something else (thought it might be for the drivers door but it's only got 3 wires)

this second box is connected to a sensor inside the solenoid box in the drivers door that is triggered when the drivers door is unlocked or locked, then triggers the solenoid in the passengers door accordingly.

the triggers for the solenoid inside the drivers door are attached to something else, and according to the service manual they're attached through the dash cluster (about 60 wires) into a "remote central locking C/U". the "remote central locking C/U" box shown in the manual is the one that is in a GT-T, and the GT-R is physically a different shape to what is shown in the manual and the plug has a vastly different pin configuration (the GTR has an immobiliser box instead).

it would be alot easier if i had a remote that would work with the stock central locking system, as then i'd be able to measure voltage on the different wires to determine which ones were the triggers.

guess the next step is really to measure the impedance across the solenoid itself then start looking for similar impedance across random pins on the immobiliser box and earth or start hacking apart the loom and tracing :laugh:

i was really hoping that somebody had the pinouts for the GT-R immobiliser box stashed somewhere but ah well :down:

anyway sorry for the rant,

merry christmas all!!

white box above left knee - split it and find the two doides side by side on the board . pulse with a test light. solder wires to those points and configure the alarm as neg trigger. no need to strip the harness.

apart from the NATS 2.8 unit its wired the same (to me anyway.)as a 34 GTT.

  • Thanks 1
  • 3 years later...

I've got an after market keyless entry and immobiliser but cant seem to hook up the doors properly can you help me out with a wiring diagram or give me an idea on where the central locking module is. I only need to hook up two wires.

  • 4 years later...
  • 7 months later...
On 12/25/2008 at 4:29 AM, Chris Rogers said:

white box above left knee - split it and find the two doides side by side on the board . pulse with a test light. solder wires to those points and configure the alarm as neg trigger. no need to strip the harness.

apart from the NATS 2.8 unit its wired the same (to me anyway.)as a 34 GTT.

Not sure if I got them correctly, here is what I have done according to here, 

IMG_0803.JPG

IMG_0801.JPG

Edited by etang789

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...