Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well took 3 days but i finally finished it and ye front end looks much cleaner now.

sorry for the shitty pics.

from this

DSC_0272.jpg

4347347.jpg

02012009087.jpg

to this

1.jpg

2.jpg

02012009093.jpg

used high temp paint in satin black for pipes in the engine bay and brake caliper paint for the cooler as its harder to wear down brake caliper paint (so i have been told).

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I sprayed mine with cans when I first got it...flaked off the end tanks pretty quickly (even with SEVERAL coats on the end tanks, not the fins)...Got it powder coated now, and its 10x more durable..no flaking whatsoever.

Making about 240rwkw without any issues, so don't let anyone tell you powder coating it will affect cooling properties.

I honestly would have thought it stuff the cooling properties up hey. Guess not.

I honestly would have thought it stuff the cooling properties up hey. Guess not.

i just coated a FMIC last week, the application process does not leave it open to cover the entire length of the fins that do the cooling. just enough to remove the silver look.

so there sould be minimal change if any.

$80 for a single stage colour for full coverage

would love to try out a candy on one, but that would stand out like crazy lol have seen a Vette in the states with a candy red cooler for the supercharger.

so far no flaking. iv washed the car 3 times now lol with high pressure hose and always scrub the cooler down to get the bugs off and ye so far all is good

if it starts to flake of to craved it goes lol

i guess it all comes down to how well you prep the surface anyways but ye will see.

so far no flaking. iv washed the car 3 times now lol with high pressure hose and always scrub the cooler down to get the bugs off and ye so far all is good

if it starts to flake of to craved it goes lol

i guess it all comes down to how well you prep the surface anyways but ye will see.

Certainly not trying to take business away from Craved, but seeing as how you're in Vic and he's in NSW, it could be a costly and time consuming process sending it to him for coating...

Any powder coater will more than likely be able to do it for you. I had mine done, along with all the piping as well as some engine bay parts done whilst my car was at RE Customs. They removed it all and sent it off to be acid dipped (to remove the spray paint) and coated etc..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Isn't there a fitting on the back of the balance tube? That's what the OEM boost gauge uses.
    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
×
×
  • Create New...