Jump to content
SAU Community

Paint Fmic?


ashneel
 Share

Recommended Posts

well took 3 days but i finally finished it and ye front end looks much cleaner now.

sorry for the shitty pics.

from this

DSC_0272.jpg

4347347.jpg

02012009087.jpg

to this

1.jpg

2.jpg

02012009093.jpg

used high temp paint in satin black for pipes in the engine bay and brake caliper paint for the cooler as its harder to wear down brake caliper paint (so i have been told).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I sprayed mine with cans when I first got it...flaked off the end tanks pretty quickly (even with SEVERAL coats on the end tanks, not the fins)...Got it powder coated now, and its 10x more durable..no flaking whatsoever.

Making about 240rwkw without any issues, so don't let anyone tell you powder coating it will affect cooling properties.

I honestly would have thought it stuff the cooling properties up hey. Guess not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I honestly would have thought it stuff the cooling properties up hey. Guess not.

i just coated a FMIC last week, the application process does not leave it open to cover the entire length of the fins that do the cooling. just enough to remove the silver look.

so there sould be minimal change if any.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

$80 for a single stage colour for full coverage

would love to try out a candy on one, but that would stand out like crazy lol have seen a Vette in the states with a candy red cooler for the supercharger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so far no flaking. iv washed the car 3 times now lol with high pressure hose and always scrub the cooler down to get the bugs off and ye so far all is good

if it starts to flake of to craved it goes lol

i guess it all comes down to how well you prep the surface anyways but ye will see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so far no flaking. iv washed the car 3 times now lol with high pressure hose and always scrub the cooler down to get the bugs off and ye so far all is good

if it starts to flake of to craved it goes lol

i guess it all comes down to how well you prep the surface anyways but ye will see.

Certainly not trying to take business away from Craved, but seeing as how you're in Vic and he's in NSW, it could be a costly and time consuming process sending it to him for coating...

Any powder coater will more than likely be able to do it for you. I had mine done, along with all the piping as well as some engine bay parts done whilst my car was at RE Customs. They removed it all and sent it off to be acid dipped (to remove the spray paint) and coated etc..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

good point Dezz, aus post are a little picky about package sizes too. cam covers etc are only about $40 return for postage, FMIC might be a bit more.

heres the FMIC from last week, ARC GTR cooler

IMG_0946.jpg

IMG_0945.jpg

IMG_0944.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...