Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how much can i get away with doing the conversion for not including the bottom end?

how muh is the mod to the head where you get the bit welded up then resurfaced?

how much to drill and tap the new feed in the head?

how much to tap the new tensioner hole in and thread it?

how much for new tensioner?

how much for new timing belt to suit?

rb30 headgasket - 80 bux genuine nissan

can you just tell me coz ive read the whole thread and all the other ones on here and it will be good for people to know straight up by reading this.

il be putting the head on myself and putting it in the car myself but need the maching and tapping done at a shop.

and what have i forgotten and include the price also.

if theres already one like this put up a link

thanks mates

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250188-rb30-conversion-minimum-cost/
Share on other sites

Do you want to build a hand grenade? or a motor thats going to last?

If you are just sticking a high km second hand block underneath then some gaskets a little machining isn't going to cost much.

timing belt & tensioner kit ; ring nissan for prices (they have gone up)

If you post your location people can give you places to ring.

All the machining for a my mates conversion was 1100.

That included:

Bore, hone

Milled surfaces

Drill and tap half inch head studs

Chem clean

Tap for idler

Installed valve springs and cams

Maybe more i cant remember.

My advice would be if you cant afford it, dont do it. You will not enjoy the process as you will be pulling your hair out trying to fund it all.

Its not the main bits you have to budget for. Its all the small unexpected bits that you dont realize needs to be ordered/bought to complete the rebuild.

My 2c.

  • 2 weeks later...

Places to call would be great.

I live in the Bris/ Gold Coast area and im trying to do the same with finding prices. As i want to rebuild the bottom end so its like new again not going with forged rods or anything like that but just so i know its nice and new and rev limit at 6800 should keep it faily safe but i have about $2500 just for head and bottom not for turbo or labour. Could this be enough?

I know enough for a rough figure but as soon as things start comming more into play it gets harder cos i need the right prices.

So any info will help :D

Going into a 32, Im not after that much power mosly the RB30 torque.

But i can get other things later on its just had finding a base price for things. when you dont know many places to get the stuff for them that isnt going to be a rip off.

Edited by raZ1911

My initial conversion cost me 2k ($1500 for a block/head/forged pistons that had already been running together) then miscellaneous stuff like crank, headgasket etc etc.

It was what I had to spend AFTER the conversion that I wasn't planning on.. :D afm was maxed so had to buy a z32/plug which also meant getting it tuned, so while I was getting it tuned I figured might aswell throw some injectors in there so straight up, it cost another 2.5k just to be driving it safely.

You could certianly do it cheap cheap but how long it would last is anyones guess!

Building a 25 or building RB30 wouldnt it be around the same price? Becuase you have to add all the little things like AFMs and what not into the 25 build?

bubba what did you have to do with engine mounts, crossmembers etc with the RB30 in your 32?

Edited by raZ1911
Building a 25 or building RB30 wouldnt it be around the same price? Becuase you have to add all the little things like AFMs and what not into the 25 build?

bubba what did you have to do with engine mounts, crossmembers etc with the RB30 in your 32?

Not really any difference cost wise between building a 25 or a 30, IMO it's a no brainer :thumbsup:

I used my RB20 mounts, had to lose the stock bov and carefully arrange the piping to get the bonnet to shut. Oh and 10mm spacers in the hinges.. rubs slightly on stock plenum and slightly on timing belt cover. Have a custom forward facing plenum going on soon so it will only rub slightly on the timing belt cover.. which should go away eventually :ermm: Hopefully I'll be able to put my strut brace back on too heh

Edited by bubba
  • 2 weeks later...
how much can i get away with doing the conversion for not including the bottom end?

how muh is the mod to the head where you get the bit welded up then resurfaced?

how much to drill and tap the new feed in the head?

how much to tap the new tensioner hole in and thread it?

how much for new tensioner?

how much for new timing belt to suit?

rb30 headgasket - 80 bux genuine nissan

can you just tell me coz ive read the whole thread and all the other ones on here and it will be good for people to know straight up by reading this.

il be putting the head on myself and putting it in the car myself but need the maching and tapping done at a shop.

and what have i forgotten and include the price also.

if theres already one like this put up a link

thanks mates

if you want to save money here are your answers

1 to block the head cut the small end off a spark and hammer it it the the oil gallery in the head

2 buy a drill and tap $40 bux

3 as 2 $40 bux

4 timming belt and tensionors about $300

I took my head into the local sheet metal shop late on a friday arvo to get welded.. The bloke asked for $20 cash and I got no receipt.. His deal was: I took my $20 and some of the boys petty cash to the bottlo and came back with a carton of the good stuff...

So, $20 for a welded oil port.. and they finish filed it aswell!

Use your head a bit, be nice and explain what your tring to do, and some people will try and help you out..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...