Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Id say with the horn thing if ur pressing the horn button on your steering wheel and thats making it go away then its probably a problem up around the steering wheel area as i said before. Dunno how u go about pulling the steering wheel off to check it seen as it has an air bag

maybe pull the colum surround off and try to look up and see if u can see any thing loose or broken

Thats my guess anyway....

yeah gona take it to an auto elec after radiator gets fixed gona cost me a fortune at the moment lol thanks heaps dude

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey all,

well the car has finally been fixed as of this morning...we located the problem after the radiator guy took the top filler bottle off he say the whole middle of the radiator was blocked big time hence causing it to build pressure and pop the hose off...so now it has all been fully flushed, unblocked, and top filler bottle replaced so will see how she goes now but yeah that radiator guy said that was the problem so thanks to everyone that helped...seems like everyone was on the right track

cheers again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But it's much better to use a freedom unit that has four different possible meanings...
    • I would try messing with friction modifier to see if it smooths it out.  Just keep adding more until it stops chattering or grabbing quite so much. If you haven't changed the gear oil in a long time you may as well start there too in case that has anything to do with it. You might want to also verify the initial torque is set to the lowest setting too. Requires popping out one of the CV axles first but that's not too bad. Once you're sure the preload is set to the lowest you can try adding an ounce at a time of friction modifier until it feels right to you.
    • It is possibly 55 degrees for the Nismo version. I had a look through the manual and the stocker has a breakaway torque of 2.5 to 3.5kgm. Supposedly the Nismo LSD goes down to 5kgm when worn in but it is pretty grabby even with very little throttle. Worse when cold. So I guess you have three things. 1. Shims. 2 Friction plates 3. Cams Would think shims would be the easiest but Ive no clue how many tenths of a mm shim thickness change equals how many kgm torque. Also not sure if the Nismo friction plates are similar/different to stock or if they are the most of the source of the diff being angry. Think I can write off the Nismo rebuild kit for the standard diff as not being what I want.  
    • Yeah, it was a bit of confusion with me, I rang and asked if they had a boot for a soft top, and then the paint shop when they rang and were asked if it had a hard top on it, which it does, just not a PRHT....LOL Meh, whilst frustrating for all concerned it isn't a war stopper and should be a thing of the past in a week or two In other N/A related news, car is booked in at the end of the month for the cams, springs, retainers, harmonic balancer and retune  I might even pull the lazy arse card and get them to do a full service on it whilst it is there
×
×
  • Create New...