Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Antenna Always Up With New Headunit

Ryan12

By Ryan12,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 month later...
cR33m Newbie

cR33m

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm not an electronics expert, and there may be something blindingly obvious I'm missing here, but can't the wire be split and soldered to both the antenna and amp signal wires? The Pioneer manual states the wire to be max. 300ma 12V DC, so it can't be carrying any significant amount other than a signal.

Is there something I'm missing, as I'm about to do an install over the weekend?

Edited by cR33m
Link to comment
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Yeah you can run the amp and antenna to the wire on the Pioneer units, but the Antenna is always up as long as the head unit is on, not just the radio. Becuase its triggering the amp as well it has to be on as long as the head unit is putting out sound.

And the antenna looks silly when its up on 33's lol thats why mine is disconnected. Still picks up radio stations easily but :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
cR33m Newbie

cR33m

Posted
Posted

Aahh I getcha. Wow that sucks :/ The HU was not cheap!!

Hopefully I can proceed with the install over the weekend and update afterwards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 11 months later...
ianjb Grand Master

ianjb

Posted
Posted

My 33 has a switch on the dash that does 1/2 and full extension antenna.

However my new head deck has only the remote switch wire for the amp to control the antenna. It's pretty fail IMO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • niZmO_Man
      RB26 boost leak? limp mode?

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Remember our cars are 30+ years old so expect the rubber bits to leak. I'd go around your engine bay with a can of "start ya bastard" or similar and look for leaks. FYI I got my car 10+ years ago with the standard boost restrictor in place, I removed it when I got it and the car never had any issues since (besices a leaking manifold gasket). tl;dr- Look for leaks before proceeding.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      That SSR is actually the same (or similar) as the Jaycar 100AMP SSR (which I use). They suggest the resistor to stop the SSR turning on when the ECU turns off (I believe). I personally don't use the resistor as I use the 5V output from the ECU to supply power to the SSR. I do however run a flyback diode, the old Haltech documentation was wrong too and didn't specify the fly back, I mentioned it to a few of their staff and they eventually added it in.
    • elohim_imanu
      Removing sump

      By elohim_imanu · Posted

      I did manage to do this without removing the engine or front cross member, but I had the advantage that the exhaust manifold was removed. I am not setup to support the engine from the top or remove it. 1. Loosen the engine mount nuts so they only have a nut of thread. If it is a manual, I think you have to remove the gearbox to engine support brackets. 2. Jack up the engine off the bottom idler mount. Jack it up till the end of the slot and nut on the mount. You need this clearance to get the pan out at the rear of the engine. 3.Break the sealant seal to sump. I found a oil pan separator tool helpful to get it started. 4. The oil pick up can be removed with the gap available.  5. The oil pan can be removed now. 6. Before assembling, do not apply sealant to the oil pick up area as your hand will rub it all off but apply to the other three and a bit sides. 7. It is a two man job to put the oil pan back, with the sealant, as you do not want it to touch anything and rub off. 8. With one person supporting the oil pan the other can fit the oil pickup 9. Apply the remaining sealant. This would be more difficult with the manifold or turbo in place, but I think it could be done. As you can see my sealant is a bit ugly, but good enough to seal. 10. Lift the sump up to the engine and bolt it on. We found it was easier to use two long guide bolts at each end to get it nice and aligned without touching.
    • MBS206
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I find building an exhaust a really satisfying job! Looks nice!   Did you consider using an oval pipe to get the same cross sectional area but keep it above the chassis rail?
    • Murray_Calavera
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Dose Pipe Sutututu Sounds good.  Just double checking with the pull up resistor indicated in haltech's info sheet for their SSR - https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-030202-solid-state-relay-100-amp/  I'm guessing that would only be if the ECU did not have an internal pull up resistor? Their instructions are pretty strongly worded lol "1K pull-up resistor MUST be fitted." 
×
×
  • Create New...