Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i get the same noise too..my engine is also rb25-det..coz of the dam cold weather happening nowadays in sydney for the past week..i think its the starter motor shaking off the freezyness when u start the car aheheheh

other than just give the car a warm up b4 u go and it should be fine

+1 for another ugly ass noise that coincided with winter this year. Grinding front front of engine bay but have not pin ponted it yet, goes away after a few seconds but 'clue' when i turn the wheel as i drive off when all is still cold the grinding \ dry\stuffed bearing noise can be heard.. goes away after 1 miin tops..

P/s pump fubar u think? Checked fluid level, its dark\dirty looking liquid and just under full, probably 10+years old though

series 1 rb25det

would it hurt to put some 5w-30 or 5w-40 in there on the next service? i know it sounds unlikely as lots of users on here with the same engine use that oil and don't have any problems. but remember no 2 engines are identical.

my daily has worn rings, so i listened to my mechanic and put some slightly thicker oil in it, it would always make weird noises on cold start ups for a few seconds, so i changed to oil to 1 with a lighter cold weight and she doesnt make any noises no more. at least it would rule that out.

-a bit off topic this is regarding engine oils - http://www.6crew.com/forum/showthread.php?...highlight=motor

quoted from that site --> "People think in terms of the oil thinning when it gets hot, they think this thinning with heat is the problem with motor oil. It is more correct to think that oil thickens when it cools and THIS is the problem" -this may be the problem as a few people said they've just started hearing noises in winter

Edited by jimmys-33T

def your starter motor.. i think i know the sound youre talking about.. I get that too.. for a split sec. that distinctive grinding sound

may just need a clean out, or could be the cold weather. Over here in nz, it hits around -2 where i live. The noise only happens when i first start her up in the daytime sometime.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...