Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 9 fully rounded off wheel nuts that i cant remove, they are resessed into the mag so either drilling out studs or using a female easy out will work but i dont know where to find one or where to buy one from any help ?

dude, weld on a piece of metal, similar to an allen key, and BAM.......job done.

and buddy, you didn't learn after doing it to at least 5 wheel nuts?....were you aiming for 10?

Edited by loco_r33

Yep, smashing a socket over them is the way to go. I lost my lock nut and was told by Tyrepower that I would need to get a panel beater to smash them off as they were the tricky type. The lock nuts were the 'rounded' type with the key pattern recessed into them.

I decided to buy a pack of deep sockets from Super Cheap for like $12 and matched the sockets against the rounded nuts. I ended up finding a size just a bit bigger than the lock nut, tapped it on with a hammer, and was able to remove it with a ratchet.

Took some time beating each nut out of the socket so the socket could be reused on another nut but it's better than replacing stripped studs from smashing them off or something.

Edited by Hydroxinol

ok, buy a slightly smaller socket, i.e. 1 mm smaller or just go imperial and get the wrong size, line her up with a little bit of grease and bash the s1ut over the nut, then take off as normal...

don't go crazy with the impact wrench, tends to round nuts off, especially yumcha nuts which have high tolerance to sizing.

  • 1 month later...

Same thing happened to me, if ur wheels permit, grind a slit in the nut, grab a cold chisel and a shifter. Stick the cold chisel in the slot but dont grab the shaft of teh chisel (shifter will just open, spanners will snap etc ), grab it fairly close to the tip where its flat. also we used a piece of wood to lever against the back of the chisel to stop it slipping out of the groove. also if its the last nut on the wheel usually if the wheel is off the ground u can get about 1mm movement by wobbling the wheel back and forward, every bit counts.

+1 for the smaller socket, single hex deep impact is the best as it will mangle the nut when you tap it on, giving it a good grip.. normal double hex sockets will crack down the side.... how we always do it in the shop.. much safer than drilling, grinding, etc.

cheers

Linton

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess when I say it's a POS I mean.. the solution and the stuff has the capacity for maybe... 1 spot. You know, as a spot cleaner. What I really *want* is the ability to do an entire car, all upholstery, all carpet, mats, all seats, door card inserts, A pillars, roof liners, etc. In one go. I get lured by all the jank that comes out and think "I'd like to be able to clean to that degree"
    • I've got one (not the car one, the domestic spot cleaner one, which is basically the same jobbie) and have driven it hard for hours and hours at a time. Grimy sofas, 6' floor rugs, etc. I'd blame your specific example rather than the whole category. I haven't used mine in the car, because.... you know, it's my car. So there is no-one else's ball sweat in the driver's seat, there's no kid food/drink spills or hand prints inside because they've never had an opportunity to put them there. You know, basic, standard Skyline rules.
    • I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up!   For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.
    • Probably because they couldn't, because the use of the variable resistor to create a "signal" in the ECU is managed by the ECU's circuitry. The only way that VDO could do it would be if they made a "smart" sensor that directly created the 0-5V signal itself. And that takes us back to the beginning. Well, in that case, you could do the crude digital (ie, binary, on or off) input that I mentioned before, to at least put a marker on the trace. If you pressed the button only at a series of known integer temperatures, say every 2°C from the start of your range of interest up to whatever you can manage, and you know what temperature the first press was at, then you'd have the voltage marked for all of those temperatures. And you can have more than one shot at it too. You can set the car up to get the oil hot (bypass oil coolers, mask off the air flow to oil coolers, and/or the radiator, to get the whole engine a bit hotter, then give it a bit of curry to get some measurements up near the top of the range.   On the subject of the formula for the data you provided, I did something different to Matt's approach, and got a slightly different linear formula, being Temp = -22.45*V + 118.32. Just a curve fit from Excel using all the points, instead of just throwing it through 2 points. A little more accurate, but not drastically different. Rsquared is only 0.9955 though, which is good but not great. If you could use higher order polynomials in the thingo, then a quadratic fit gives an excellent Rsquared of 0.9994. Temp = 2.1059*V^2 - 34.13*V + 133.27. The funny thing is, though, that I'd probably trust the linear fit more for extrapolation beyond the provided data. The quadratic might get a bit squirrely. Hang on, I'll use the formulae to extend the plots.... It's really big so you can see all the lines. I might have to say that I think I really still prefer the quadratic fit. It looks like the linear fit overstates the temperature in the middle of the input range, and would pretty solidly understate what the likely shape of the real curve would say at both ends.
    • I got a hand held bisssel one and it's a piece of shit. Doesn't work for more than about 5 seconds. So much so that I nearly refuse to believe any wet dry vac actually works or has enough suction to clean the carpet of a car. I'm discouraged as all the good ones are $300+ for an unknown result. I saw MCM did a Ryobi video where they use this thing: https://www.ryobi.com.au/products/stick-vacuum-cleaners/18v-one-hptm-brushless-spot-cleaner-tool-only Anyone have any experience actually using a tool like this when not paid to showcase it?
×
×
  • Create New...