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**Also had a few PM's regarding FMIC, Sorry Guys but it's only going to be sold complete (Core & Piping) & is still For Sale :banana:

Will post up pics of the Boost Controller & BOV/Adapter Plate too this afternoon :ermm:

Still got:

Bootlid

S2 Spoiler

Bonnet

Front Fender's

Door's

All Window's

Mirrors

FMIC with Piping

Complete Interior except Driver's Seat & Dash Cluster

Tail Lights

Rear Skyline Garnish

Rear Bar

Exhaust

Greddy Boost Controller

BLITZ BOV with Adapter Plate

If not listed PM me :(

I'm chasing the air con fan (sits in front of the radiator), and the passenger mirror bracket (not the mirror itself).

I've got the aircon fan & i will check the bracket, the mirror is still there so it should be there. I'll PM you anyway.

Hey mate,

when is the next time available to come pick-up the steering wheel?

Finally figured it out

Regards, Sean

:laugh: I was waiting to hear back from you, thought you'd forgotten about it, would the weekend be ok?? message me anytime & we'll work out a time!

Got rear handbrake assembly / cables? What about front and rear hubs??

I do but it's still on the Car...

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    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
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