Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys I have a Series II rb25det in a S14 240sx. I cannot get this thing to run correctly. Everything is completely stock except a front mount intercooler, 2.5inch downpipe and 3inch exhaust and a walbro 255hp fuel pump. After driving the only code I get is 21 ignition circuit. Feels like antilag. I have already tried a different afm and a different cas and no change whatsoever. Any help would be appreciated. I do know about the rich and retard and I have no knock sensor code. I have bought the resistors to bypass rich and retard but I have not tried it yet. Thanks in advance for any help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250672-5000rpm-timing-retard/
Share on other sites

Going back years, but i had a prob like you describe when i first got my series one. Although your car is mainly stock, boost will rise above stock due to the cooler and exhaust, and when the ecu see's up to a certain level it will pull timing, which on mine occured as you describe. When it was cold weather i would get what sounded like rev-limiter like pop sounds as it went through that flat range. Anyone correct if thats wrong.

I threw on an FC and got a tune which sorted everything out.

Guys I have a Series II rb25det in a S14 240sx. I cannot get this thing to run correctly. Everything is completely stock except a front mount intercooler, 2.5inch downpipe and 3inch exhaust and a walbro 255hp fuel pump. After driving the only code I get is 21 ignition circuit. Feels like antilag. I have already tried a different afm and a different cas and no change whatsoever. Any help would be appreciated. I do know about the rich and retard and I have no knock sensor code. I have bought the resistors to bypass rich and retard but I have not tried it yet. Thanks in advance for any help.

how much boost?

had the same thing with my s1 25, running about 10-12psi the power curve would take a dive then when u hit 6200 it was like hitting vtec. just the stock ecu going rich n retard. put it on the dyno at the time to make sure it was running safe -

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd251/J...17052008009.jpg

error 21 can include coilpacks, a very common problem.

my car did the same thing, seems to be a common thing with the RB25's. Trent at Status was able to take it out with a remap, so it was prob the ecu pulling timing.

considering it's an ignition error, what you checked the coils/spark plugs? how new are the plugs and what are they?

if you're in melb, take it to Trent @ status

error 21 can include coilpacks, a very common problem.

my car did the same thing, seems to be a common thing with the RB25's. Trent at Status was able to take it out with a remap, so it was prob the ecu pulling timing.

considering it's an ignition error, what you checked the coils/spark plugs? how new are the plugs and what are they?

if you're in melb, take it to Trent @ status

Thanks for the replies. Boost is around 9.5 - 10 psi. I am using NGK BCPR7ES plugs that didnt change the problem so the plugs are a week old and are gapped at .8mm or .032. The thing is the car will do this with part throttle and sitting still. If I go full throttle sitting still you cant feel it, except for when you are driving. Last night it fouled my new NGK plugs out just by free revving it. Im stumped. Jonno that dyno looks like the way my car would feel. Its like trying to push the great wall of china out of my way and then it clears up and Im on the rev limiter before I can catch it.

Edited by boostedfe3

mmm sorta sounds like the same prob im having but mine will do it from down low till high rpm and only before the car warms up

im smelling raw fuel at some points so im getting some sort of ignition cut or fuel up, im sorta hovering around crank angle sensor

I thought cam angle sensor also. I tried a different one that came off a buddies car and same thing. Stupid stock ecu. Since I have a series II and live in the states, can I just find a series I ecu and have it remapped. Really not looking to go to a standalone ecu at the moment.

Edited by boostedfe3

code 21 is no ignition ref, 25det's run internal ignited COP, the coils send back a ref signal to the ecu to say they have fired correctly. code 21 is logged when the a ref signal is not receive for more than a couple of revolutions. the fact that the mis is evident at 5000rpm(probably full boost, high engine load) would indicate that the coils are starting to fail(it's harder to spark at higher cylinder pressures). the engine will probable light load free rev through 5000rpm without missing

failsafe/limp for error 21 may include timing map locking and possible fuel map supplement.

try swapping the coils if you can get hold of another set, or try diagnosing which coil is failing and swap with another cylinder to see if the misfire moves to that cylinder.

also check your camshaft as the splines for the cas wear out and cause all sorts of timing problems as there is too much play between the cam and cas splines. your prob sounds like rich and retard with a bit of coil pack break down thrown in lol

you guys think I should try and disable rich and retard and see what happens? and once again thanks for the responses. Also keep in mind I have that the car does this sitting still and free revving with part throttle.

Edited by boostedfe3
oh ok. I was under the impression that it would disable it, but I understand what you are saying also.

If you don't want to get a computer consider getting an Apexi SAFC (an old cheap version will do) and an Apexi SITC both usually available on US ebay. Otherwise you can't really tune your car at all.

ok will look into the afc. No I have not checked the fuel pressure yet, although that is next. I almost think that it is running way rich. when the car is warming up I get lots of brown smoke out the exhaust. And Im not getting any codes at all now and I have been driving it for a couple of days.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi again all, I’ve tried doing some searching on the topic but couldn’t find the answer I’m looking for.   I deleted my clutch booster because it had an air leak and was squealing like a hog, and now my clutch has very poor pedal feel and the friction zone is way too small, so I believe I need a bigger diameter clutch master cylinder to compensate for not using the booster. I found a Wilwood option that’s 3/4” for a good price and will fit my 3AN clutch line, but all the firewall adapters I see online such as RB factory or Chase Bays are listed as RWD only (GTST/GTS). Link below. https://rbfactory.shop/products/nissan-to-wilwood-girling-clutch-master-cylinder-adapter My question is if these adapters will also fit a GTR, and if anyone has experience using a 3/4” CMC without the booster, my clutch is a Nismo coppermix twin plate.   Thanks, always appreciate the advice!
    • Catching up on a post, I've replaced the external shark fin with a small 4g antenna (no further drilling, just a 1mm embiggening of the existing hole, and run that to where the dual battery models have the battery in the left rear guard.  No idea what the factory antenna did, but removing it had no impact on anything I use, according to the US manual the GPS antenna is in the dash and it still works fine Also ended up stealing battery power from one of the amps and ACC power from a unit nearby to add an ACC relay to power it. The mounted the booster, wifi, power socket and antenna splitter in the rear left guard out of the way, all out of site with the boot trims in
    • What drama? The only drama you're going to have is the near constant work to maintain all those sphericals. I only have sphericals in my front caster rods and front upper CAs (because both of these are near compulsory in an R32). I have had the front arms out of my car 34 times already this month, and if the new replacements arrive today, I will have them out and apart again tomorrow. Chasing clicking and clunking that comes from sphericals being a.....poor choice for a road car. Moisture and dirt are not their friends. I have been contemplating a change to my rear subframe that would require me to use sphericals in my lower CAs. And.....I don't want to have them that close to the road.
    • Did you need anything else you've already done? If you had it before... and liked the changes after, then supposedly it'd be more of the same. The idea about most suspension arms is to tune geometry that the OEM arms max out at/can't handle because they weren't designed to have the car setup in such a way that 'looks good'.
    • I have replaced everything on my r34 including suspension to Miester R, all rear subframe bushes to poly, all arms to metal adjustable and same in front.   only thing I haven't touched is the front lower control arm. Should I? what improvement can i expect ? I mean the one on the link below?   Car drives perfectly, it is just me thinking everything is either puly bush or hard bearing type so should also do lower control arm front but do I really need it ? https://www.japspeed.co.uk/product/suspension/adjustable-arms/nissan-200sx-s13-s14-s15-skyline-r32-r33-r34-adjustable-suspension-front-lower-control-arms/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAo5u6BhDJARIsAAVoDWs5V_PauQPf0kx3zFCaA4tOC9Q7JSIsfJWma_jAPN2f1sJA686djOwaAidgEALw_wcB
×
×
  • Create New...