Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i have just put a s2 rb25det into my 1993 r32 gtst...

mods:

apexi turbo

z32

power fc

splitfires

nismo 555cc

metal intake pipe with BOV return lines removed.

3inch turbo back

eboost

fmic

catch can

now it has been tuned abd makes 250rwkw on 15psi.

everytime i clutch in the revs die and the car turns off..

we pressure tested the whole system and found a leaking plenum gasket so replaced that and still stalling.

there are no other leaks in piping etc..

any ideas on what i can look out for?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250773-r32-rb25det-keeps-stalling/
Share on other sites

yeh my stock BOV is blocked off..

and the bov return lines removed and a single metal intake pipe made up!

should i put the stock intake pipe in with the return lines and c how we go?

well, when I blocked up my stock BOV the car started stalling as if i had vent to atmosphere one on.

I couldn't fit it. Was really weird, so I just installed the stock one (with return line) on again and its fine.

  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I would say it would be the power fc. First of all what power fc are you using (d-jetro?) seeing as you have a afm im guessing you have the older one. I have a similar problem with mine. Atm making 400hp with the pfc and it drops idle alot when i put clutch in but doesnt stall. Any ive been told its coz of the pfc running a afm. Recommended to change the ecu or maybe try move afm a bit further from turbo as this will decrease the back pressure that the turbo gives off when you come off throttle.

??? If it is the afm that's causing the stall than infact it would be. As the older version doesnt not have a map and relys on the data from the afm to keep the engine idling correctly. That's y the d-jetro version and all dont run the afm anymore due to this issue of back pressure and the pfc stalling the engine.

Ok believe me or not - im telling you it is not the ECU.

l-jetro and d-jetro are two different versions - one does not superseed the other.

What you were told, was wrong. I've run AFM's on 370rwkw setups, no idle/stalling or otherwise if your tuner actually has a clue

Sounds like you were fed b/s just to have a new ECU put in due to either the tuner making money, or to hide the fact they do not know what to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...