Help Help Help 48kw

[FineLine]

Check that your bov is working. Had a similar issue when mine stuck. Car idles and makes all the right noises etc but had no oomph whatsoever.

Worth a try.

[shotter]

The BOV was tightened right up and works fine. It hasn't got a gates timing belt. The rubbing noise went away as soon as you loosened the front bolts. It ide's fine and revs at idle with no problem (except for it backfiring when you take your foot off and the revs fall back to idle. No blue smoke at all. What 3 cam timing marks are you talking about? One option i thought is to pull the cam out and get a CAS that has the key in it. and get a cam that has the opposite key. Just so i know thats fine. But im guessing thats alot of work if it's not going to fix the problem.

[Travis Trayhern]

they key in the cam just makes it easyer to line up the timing no need to change but when putting the CAS you have to take extra care in making sure its in the right position

[nIsMo86]

Find a new mechanic!

This workshop sounds hopeless....

[shotter]

But if the timing was ligned up at the 0 mark on the crank with a timing light wouldn't that say that the CAS is working fine and the cam is in the right spot? And how do you know exactly what point to put the CAS in?

[BeEnAr]

The workshop is very unlikely to lend you their tools and hoist to do the work for yourself, what do they get out of it? Plus their are insurance issues they would need to think about by letting someone in to work under a hoist that doesn't work there. Bit different if the engine was out and on a stand, but not on whole car up on a a hoist

Seriously dude, rather than just get everyone to list every possible thing it could be, just pick the car up, thank the workshop for their time and "effort" and take your car somewhere else. You will probably find out that it is something very simple and take not much time to fix, or it will be something major and take a bit of work, either way at least you will know what is wrong with it. If the new workshop can't find the problem then you haven't lost anything except maybe a hundred bucks for trailer hire and a bit of your time.

That and your car will look like a fully sik tokyo drifter on a trailer lol

[shotter]

I have already worked on the car while it has been sitting on the dyno. and i have taken my car to another workshop before and they were hopeless. This workshop seams to be good just a really weird and hard to find cause.

[shotter]

Im starting to wonder.... What would have caused the PCV valve to blow out during a dyno run? Because all these problems started to happen after the car popped we found the gromet had split and the PCV valve was sitting out a bit.

[tridentt150v]

Except for you saying it holds boost, I'd say a stuck open wastegate. Is your actuator arm actually working, and it def. holds boost? Then again, a std motor should make more than 48 kw even without FI.

[shotter]

The actuator arm is working, you can see it moving. We have chacked the actuator and it's working fine. And the motor isn't std, it has been rebuilt in the past with forged pistons.

[drag-on silvia]

is this a series 1 of series 2 skyline engine wise

[shotter]

Series 1

[TTT]

you know.... it's only 2 bolts that hold the cat to the front pipe.

drop it.

what have you got to lose?

[drag-on silvia]

try a different ignighter module then if its a series one.. knew a bloke who had a similar problem, everything seemed good and they couldnt figure out why it was only making 96rwkw on 1 bar and it ended up bein the ignighter module was rooted. just something to think about.

[EFI Performance]

If the dyno is in use, then the proplem should be sourced, we use our dyno as a diagnostic tool, not a tuning tool. unless the dyno is a VAIN then there should be enough equipment to diag the proplem there and then.

Other than that it mean's the equipment isnt being used correctly.

Edited January 6, 2009 by EFI Performance

[blind_elk]

But if the timing was ligned up at the 0 mark on the crank with a timing light wouldn't that say that the CAS is working fine and the cam is in the right spot?

Not if that's the timing at idle. It's supposed to be 15BTDC. If it's only 0 (TDC), then the spark is firing 15 degrees too late right across the range. Considering that at full noise, the timing might be supposed to be 10BTDC, then it's actually firing 5ATDC. That's into the power stroke - no wonder it can't make power!

And how do you know exactly what point to put the CAS in?

The key on the exhaust cam controls where (at what angular relationship) the CAS mounts. Without the key, the CAS can only be in one position for the engine to run - any other position, and it just won't start.

[shotter]

So if the cam marks are where they should be, The belt hasn't jumped a tooth and if the timing light is showing the right angle then this would rule out the cam? Or would i still need to replace the cam for one with a key and the CAS for one with a key?

[BeEnAr]

I have already worked on the car while it has been sitting on the dyno. and i have taken my car to another workshop before and they were hopeless. This workshop seams to be good just a really weird and hard to find cause.

Car sitting on a dyno is not the same as car being on a hoist. End of the day it is up to them if they want the potential legal problems it could pose if something went wrong. I'm with Drag and GTST, try the ignitor and the CAT, forget about the cam for now, do the easy quick stuff first!

[shotter]

Where is the ignitor module? and how can you test it? Do you mean the coils on top of each spark plug or something else?

[BeEnAr]

The loom for the coils plugs into the ignitor. Should be a silver metal thing with finns on it and 4 screw holes. On a 32gtr it sits on top of the valley cover at the back of the engine, dunno bout 33 though, and 34 have the ignitor built into the coils