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shotter

By shotter,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

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So if the cam marks are where they should be, The belt hasn't jumped a tooth and if the timing light is showing the right angle then this would rule out the cam? Or would i still need to replace the cam for one with a key and the CAS for one with a key?
I suggested that the timing light was showing the WRONG angle. Check it - it should be 15BTDC at idle.

Forget about the cam / CAS - just get the ignition timing right. (you don't need to replace the cam or the CAS)

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shotter Rising Star

shotter

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Well they have done a compression test and said that the compression was pretty low on each cylinder. But they were all the same. They told me that they have been busy the past few days and that tomorrow they will be able to put in a propper look.

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shotter Rising Star

shotter

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Not sure what the comp was. Another update. they took it for a drive 1st thing and it ran fine, then they took it for another drive and it's now running like crap again.

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BeEnAr Experienced

BeEnAr

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Maybe you've done a head gasket or got a split in the plenum? seems odd that it was fine 1st thing then not a bit later. I can't wait to hear what the problem was, no doubt it will be nothing we have suggested here lol

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shotter Rising Star

shotter

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Well friday morning the solinoid that adjust's the valve timing was working fine. Then later in the day it stoped working. The ECU was not sending the turn on command. Then this morning 1st thing it was working fine again. It was even sending the command this morning when it wasn't connected to the solinoid. Which rules out the solinoid as being faulty. The few things we noticed was there was a colent temp sensor error. and the O2 signal was at 0Volts. So were changing the O2 sensor and the colent sensor. Then were going to throw it back on the dyno and see if it's happy or not.

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Travis Trayhern Proficient

Travis Trayhern

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dude i have told you its the CAS it will cut in and out random thats why i said give it a tap on the dyno thats why it was fine for ya drive then went back to shit, also o2 sensors dont do anything except economy when ya tune a car you disable the o2 sensors so dont bother changing them and your tuning shop should know this are you sure thy know what they are doing?

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PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

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Yeah the coolant temp sensor wont be causing this. It can make the vehicle have problems starting or running rough (or not start at all) but it wouldnt be causing such a huge drop in power.

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blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

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Well friday morning the solinoid that adjust's the valve timing was working fine. Then later in the day it stoped working. The ECU was not sending the turn on command. Then this morning 1st thing it was working fine again. It was even sending the command this morning when it wasn't connected to the solinoid. Which rules out the solinoid as being faulty. The few things we noticed was there was a colent temp sensor error. and the O2 signal was at 0Volts. So were changing the O2 sensor and the colent sensor. Then were going to throw it back on the dyno and see if it's happy or not.
I would suggest you have a broken wire somewhere in the loom to the solenoid. It is intermittently losing connection because of vibrations, then making the connection again.

Try permanently powering the solenoid - see how the car goes. Try a new connection between the ECU and the solenoid.

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TTT Grand Master

TTT

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there was a thread on here where a guy had a misfire on his GTR.

he changed every single thing that everyone suggested.

then later, he found that the LOOM, where it goes through the panel work, had rubbed against the metal.. eventually, one wire got scratched open and would keep thouching the bodywork, causing a short out each time, which was like a missfire for the owner.

I'm sure it was near the wheel well...

might be something else you can add to your list to check.

I think he has a missfire thread here..

I know your's isn't a missfire and neither was his really...

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