Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

OMFG ITS FIXED!!!!! Well it's back to normal anyway. The workshop found the cause of the problem.

The NEG lead from the battery. I think before i bought the car it was replaced by the owner but they didn't do a very good job, because the wire just fell out of the connector. So that would explane why it was playing up in the past too. So the workshop replaced the wire and the very 1st run it was back up over 200kw.

Yep I would like to know the bill too. After all the suggestions and help from members, one of them really stood out that he never tried from the get go...

GO TO A NEW WORKSHOP!

Probably would have had this fixed ages ago.

I doubt another workshop would have found it easy. It's not a usual thing to pop the boot open and pull on the NEG cable. And if i did take it to another workshop i would have 2 bills to pay for and not one. I dont know how much it's going to cost yet because they are still tuning it. And where did 6 weeks come from?

i may have exagerated the 6 week part but nun the less, battery terminals / connections is one of the first things they should have checked.

how long does it take to grab the terminals and twist them and then grab the wires and tug them? 5 seconds tops.

these are the simple obvios things that should allways be checked first.

if they took this long im sure it was just a flook that they found the prob at all.

Shotter - You can doubt all you want but I guess you will never know???

Just because your battery is in the boot doesn't make it special. Even on a basic service they check your battery. And if doing work on electricals or even playing around with them they "should" have disconnected the battery first to eliminate popping fuses... or getting a nasty shock from a faulty coil ignitor holding thousands of volts.

Come to think of it this workshop sounds ace, I may take my ride on lawnmower there for a dyno run, I rekon it would top your 48kW! Especially in Rabbit mode!! lolz

Edited by Dirk Diggler

Well i just got told the cost....... F*#KING $2196

$900 for workshop time

$1100 for dyno time

and the rest covered parts used.

So not happy.

Now im not saying they didn't spend alot of time on the car. Hell i spent 2 days on it. (what a waste) And they kept saying oh we will look after you and it wont cost all that much. I dont know about you but $2196 is alot in my books. It would have been really nice for them to say "look we found and fixed the problem and the bill is around the $1000 mark, Would you still like us to tune it" My answer would have been "NO $1000 is more than i thought it would cost all up. BYE. I guess it goes to show that it doesn't matter how friendly they are or how much you think they are doing you a favour and will look after you. They are ALWAYS after money and will bend you over. So now my car will probably have to sit in there workshop for the next month till i can get the money to pay for it...

It might not be obvious for that problem - I had a mate with a very similar problem in an R33 - ended up being that the timing was completely out, but surely wouldn't someone notice!?! I for one always check the battery connections in my cars, if only for buildup of contaminants usually.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...